Dear Design Your Wild, I didn’t really understand the golden ratio. Were you talking about plant bed shapes?—Design workshop participant

Nope. We recommend using the golden ratio—or a rough approximation—for sizing oval and rectangular garden “rooms,” not beds. Making destinations like your patio or play lawn or fenced edibles garden regular shapes signals to your brain “you have arrived.” Plant beds around these garden rooms are often irregularly shaped.

Using the golden ratio, the length of the long side of a rectangle is 1.618 times the length of the short side. We use this very loosely, so Zoe’s patio is a 20 by 30-foot oval (1.5 times), for example. The concept keeps us from making uncomfortable, bowling-alley-like spaces. (See “Why?” below for examples of the golden ratio in nature.)

Dear Design Your Wild, How do I make my kids’ full size soccer goal fit into our third-acre yard? And all the other sporty equipment they love?—Kate, Kansas

Your average size lot has space for MANY garden rooms—including a soccer goal and practice area. Think about it: The average house, garage, and driveway take up less than 4,000 square feet. That leaves an enormous 11,000 square feet of outdoor living space.

Let’s assume you want to participate fully in Doug Tallamy’s Homegrown National Park challenge and replace at least half your lawn with native plants. If your outdoor space is currently mostly lawn, that’s 5,500 square feet of layered native plantings and an equal amount of open space. Still a large outdoor house!

Remember to sign up for—and tell your friends about—this year’s all-new, always-free Less Lawn More Life challenge before Dr. Robin Kimmerer kicks it off on May 7.

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For the kids, I suggest leaving a big, rectangular sports field and buying or building an equipment shed. A full-size high school soccer goal is 24 feet wide. Using the golden ratio as a starting point, you might make a 30 by 48 foot games field. To balance the visual weight of the goal, consider aligning a generous equipment shed longwise along the opposite end. (Check out Reeds Ferry, which built ours, for examples of attractive, well-constructed sheds. Pete’s going to DIY the next one. Stay tuned.)

That still leaves 3,000 square feet for your other garden rooms. In fact, even if you make a generous dining area and outdoor kitchen, an edibles garden, and a 4-foot wide path circling the house, you’ll still have space for more rooms or plants. Plus, when the children are older, you can transform the equipment shed into a gym, studio, or office.

What fun!

Dear Design Your Wild, What’s the smallest pond that can be sustained without an external filter and pump.—Teresa

A large container—say, 24 inches wide by 18 inches deep, placed in a sunny spot. You’ll recall that in our “How to Build a Wildlife Pond” workshop, Robert Pavlis recommended covering at least a third of the surface area with plants. One native fragrant water lily (Nymphaea odorata) is sufficient, though an additional tall margin plant ups the drama. Expect to divide the water lily each spring to avoid overcrowding (less often with bigger ponds).

Contrary to most of what you’ll read online, wash off any soil from the roots and replant them in gravel or rocks at their preferred depth. And do not fertilize. Add a large rock or two so birds can bathe and other critters can climb out. If mosquitoes are a problem, add a Dunk or tiny gambusia fish; eventually, dragonfly larvae should control the mosquito larvae.

Dear Design Your Wild, Is there a specific distance from your house that you need to build a pond? Also, is there any issue with dogs and ponds? (I have two labs.)—Nancy-Jean

Distance from the house is mostly a matter of design—which you know all about;) Think proportion: a small pond to view from a patio near the house, a large pond as a destination further away. We are so enjoying watching the birds splashing and dragonflies zipping around our new pond, about 14 feet from our patio seating and 35 feet from our dining room window.

As for dogs, we’re training Sukey, successfully so far, not to drink from or go into the pond. Patti Cochran of Ohio, on the other hand, built a sturdy pond where her dogs enjoy swimming (and shared this gorgeous reel).

I used RPE liner and sandwiched it between underlayment to make sure dogs cannot puncture liner. As far as plants go, the worst thing they do is maybe tip one over. My 40 [pound] dog swims in pond; my big 90 pound dog just likes to get in and cool off, no swimming. —Building Natural Ponds Facebook Group

Your pond, your dogs, your choice.

Why, How, Wow!

Why? The golden ratio appears often in nature.

Yesterday, I planted 50 wood ferns from four-inch pots, some with their fiddleheads still unfurling. Fiddleheads, nautilus shells, and the arrangement of seeds in a sunflower and leaves around a stem all reflect the golden ratio.

Like pi, the golden ratio—known to mathematicians as phi—is a constant found in nature. Phi equals approximately 1.618. (It’s an irrational number, like pi, so the decimal places continue on and on to infinity.) There’s a mathematical formula, but the ratio is most associated with the Fibonacci sequence, where each number is the sum of the two preceding ones, as in: 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, 89, 144, etc. Throughout the sequence, the ratio between consecutive numbers closely approximates the golden ratio, becoming closer and closer to it as the sequence progresses.

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In a Renaissance book illustrated by Leonardo da Vinci, friar and mathematician Luca Pacioli suggested the ratio was divine, sent from heaven by the “Supreme Architect.” Generations of designers have used the ratio to establish structural order, including Modernists like architect Le Corbusier and painter Piet Mondrian. However, studies have failed to prove its innate superiority, which is why Zoe and I use it loosely.

[C]ritics argue that prevalence of the divine ratio in nature is often exaggerated, or the result of confirmation bias or selective measurement. Many of these occurrences are approximations rather than exact matches, not least because the golden ratio cannot be applied precisely because it’s an irrational number. What’s more, measurements are too often imprecise or even subjective, taken between points according to the chosen narrative.—Discovery UK

How: The golden ratio and garden rooms

Using plants to divide outdoor spaces into geometric rooms makes a yard feel larger—there’s more to explore—and its spaces more comfortable and intimate. I recommend designing your yard plan around spaces where humans feel comfortable, as opposed to around planting beds, to make a garden where humans will want to spend time. And the wildlife couldn’t care less about the shape of your planting beds.

In my new Gainesville garden, I used flags and branches to mark out the human spaces—rooms and the paths that connect them—before we installed any plants. I used ovals and circles, rounded shapes that fit into golden ratio rectangles and squares. (The first rectangle in a Fibonacci sequence is a square, one by one.) It looks crappy right now (let’s face it), but I’m confident it’ll become fabulous and I’ll share its progress over time.

Wow! Dividing outdoor spaces into comfortable places

The picturesque Walk in the Park plantings at the home of Amy Eld, founder of vintage interiors retailer Rock the Heirloom, illustrates transform narrow, shady side yards into pleasant places to stroll by making them appear closer to a golden rectangle. The sculptural tree in the back, planted almost in the middle of the width, makes the length seem shorter than it is. And varied, multilayered shrubs, vines, and trees add visual interest and “blur the boundary,” making the yard feel wider.

The garden behind designer Elizabeth Macfarlane’s Victorian rowhouse illustrates how even a small yard can be divided into multiple golden rectangle rooms. A central bed with evergreen globes divides the yard into three rectangular seating areas and a path. Trees and shrubs around the exterior connect the garden to the broader landscape, making it feel larger, rather than smaller.

‘The garden, like the house, was a complete disaster,’ recalls Elizabeth, who called on garden designer Cali Rand to transform the outdoor space into distinct, functional areas, including a dining space and two separate seating areas. ‘We had some really nice mature trees to work with, and Cali did a really great job of planting out the rest.’—The English Home

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At the back of the yard is what the English call a “garden room”—a separate structure in the garden, not to be confused with a room within the garden—that pulls you through the garden. Macfarlane quips, “The garden room is where we hide all the ugly stuff.” That’s a worthwhile function, too.

Digging deeper

• It’s spring! Time to buy more seating for your yard! But first, review my guide to outdoor furniture, including its dirty downside. I favor buying used; search for quality brands like Fermob, Brown Jordan, Janus et cie., and vintage Salterini and Umanoff. But if you prefer to buy new, check out these Westport chairs (a deal), bistro sets, and luxury brands.

• Removing invasives can seem a Sisyphean task, so this recent headline cheered me: Rat eradication sparks record-breaking seabird breeding on Wake Atoll. It also reminded me that Alberta, Canada, has also eradicated the world’s most costly invasive. There’s hope.

• Margaret Roach’s recent New York Times column explains how to choose the sexiest cultivated varieties of native plants that will also deliver the best ecological performance. [gift link]

Hello, Yardeners!

It’s Zoe, Heather’s daughter, and I’m jumping in to wish you HAPPY EARTH DAY and share something personal. (Don’t worry—my mom will be back next week with her regularly scheduled column!)

As some of you know, I manage the Less Lawn More Life challenge: a free 12-week program helping people turn everyday yards into real habitat. It’s all new this year— new experts, new resources, new tools. It starts May 7 with a live kickoff featuring Robin Wall Kimmerer(!), followed by one simple, expert-guided action each week.

Even if you don’t have a lawn—you have a balcony or live in the woods—you can add more life to your property.

If you do one thing this Earth Day, let it be to go outside and look at some nature. If you do two things, let it be to ask a friend to do the Less Lawn More Life challenge with you!

Join the Free Challenge

If you take the challenge, you’ll get a Wildr Score (basically a land health checkup), weekly challenges to help improve it, and a community of people doing this work right alongside you. Whether you’re new to habitat gardening or a long time rewilder, there is something new to learn for everyone. BTW even if you took it last year, the content is completely revamped—and this year you’ll also be the very first people to use a brand new tool I’ve helped build called Wildr Places. (More on that below.)

All of this work is rooted in something deeply personal to me: my sister Eva, who died two years ago, and what her death taught me about how intertwined we are with nature. How new life can come out of grief, even when someone you love is gone forever. I wrote it all down below.

Thanks, as always, for being on this wild ride with us,

—Zoe

For Eva

Turning loss into something that grows

Sunday was the anniversary of my sister Eva’s death. Those of you who have been with us for two years may remember my mom’s post about it.

That May, my sisters and mom and I planted an Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis) with her ashes in my backyard in ceremony. Today, her tree is blooming in full force on the anniversary of her death. When I look at its tiny flowers, I see life, grief, the complexity of humanness in its little pink buds. My sister is gone, but caring for her tree gives me purpose. She feeds the bees, she holds the water, she’s found new life. And for me this is a way to remember all the ways Eva is still with me.

My mom named us well. Eva means life in Hebrew. Zoe means life in Greek.

We are life.

We are not separate from nature, we are nature. And remembering that has been such a wellspring of energy for me since she died.

Grief, dirt, purpose

Before Eva died, I was just starting to learn what land could be. Mom and I had built “Transform Your Yard,” our first course together—14 weeks of teaching people to design yards they love.

A week before the course wrapped, my sister died unexpectedly.

My garden became something different for me after that. First, a place to weed with abandon while I worked through rage and sorrow and confusion. My family did a ceremony to plant a tree for Eva. My sisters Lila and Sofi, my mom, and I held her ashes in our bare hands and put them in the hole in the earth, burning wish paper as we sent our prayers out. We planted the redbud tree together in my backyard and filled the hole back up with soil, adding water. I had to care for it (and the hundreds of other plants I planted that summer).

Later that year I turned all my energy and lack of agency over her death into more things I can actually do. Things that fill my cup and give me purpose and remind me we are not alone. I guess I tried to transform her death into more ways to bring life into the world.

Little did I know that just a couple years later, mom and I would be name-dropped by Margaret Roach in her interview with Becca Rodomsky-Bish, alongside native plant champions like Doug Tallamy and Benjamin Vogt. Or that I would be designing the very tools I wished existed so more people could do this thing I love. I wish Eva was here so I could tell her all my updates until she shouted at me “no more native plant talk!!”

What I told Eva as I planted

Eva and I both cared deeply about making a positive impact on this world. She told deep stories through film and humor. I try to find ways to make a difference on our land and in our local communities. We were both so, so proud of each other. And the way Eva would proudly tell people about things her older sister was doing… I carry that with me.

This year, I planted 100 tree and shrub seedlings around my yard on the second anniversary of Eva’s death. Adding to my memorial garden, our shared legacy.

And as I planted, I told Eva things that I’m proud of.

Digging in the dirt, I caught her up. Since she died, I got my master naturalist certification from Cornell. I started a coalition to protect my local creek from wastewater pollution and joined my local watershed community’s leadership team. I founded an ecological hunting alliance to protect our forests. I taught tens of thousands of people to design outdoor spaces with my mom, and we just submitted a book proposal to our agent.

I told her how I met Joanna Hall and the Plan it Wild team who founded Less Lawn More Life and Wildr, and how we’re building something together now that’s bigger than any of us. How I helped develop a science-based methodology to recommend native plants and presented it to Doug Tallamy and other heroes of mine. How I've helped build an app so more people can discover the magic of bringing life to their yard. How many incredible partners and individuals we talk with every day, and the way it's all growing together like a mycelial web. Every day it feels like the universe needs it to happen.

And how in two weeks, I’ll be moderating a Q&A with Robin Wall Kimmerer.

Join me & Dr. Kimmerer

Find your fireflies

Last year I was just helping with Less Lawn More Life. This year I’m leading it, and we’ve totally revamped the content. (I’m especially excited about the whole new challenge around water conservation & protection this year.)

Twelve weeks, weekly challenges with free resources, webinars with experts.

If you do one thing, just read each email.
Two things, plant something native for someone you miss.
Three things, notice a new bird or bug.

And maybe it’ll change your life like it changed mine. At minimum, you’ll have some smiles and fun.

Join the Challenge

(Eva was the most New York City it girl you could imagine. Shovels, no way. But lightening bugs? Hell yeah. My sisters and I all loved those since we were kids, finding them in the middle of the East Village on our rooftop. And later Eva wanted to know how to protect fireflies on her little Brooklyn balcony. We can all do something, you just gotta find your own fireflies. The challenge can show you many ways you can make a difference—even doing just one thing matters.)

What grows from here

The new tool, Wildr Places, is in beta. We’re building it into a personalized native plant and habitat guide for your specific yard, and we’ll grow into that vision with your help.

The plants it recommends aren’t random. They’re the ones that specialist bees, butterflies, and moths depend on—species that are disappearing because the specific plants they need are disappearing too. When you plant them, you’re giving those struggling beings a chance.

In the app, you can see the species in my memorial garden for Eva. I hope it inspires you to plant something for someone you love.

And you don’t need a yard to do this. A single pot on a balcony counts. Less Lawn More Life is just a way of saying: wherever you are, make more life.

Less Lawn More Life

This work changed my life. Not just the challenge, but everything about restoring nature and nurturing struggling species and watching the life we can steward. It’s about agency. Being able to do something in my own backyard when so much feels out of my control. It’s about beauty and design, and creating a place that pulls me outside into the sun so I feel the breeze on my face and remember why I do this.

Eva’s tree is blooming right now. I think she’s proud of me.

P.S. We're not doing this alone. Less Lawn More Life is a grassroots campaign now backed by a whole crew of habitat heroes and conservation orgs, with more joining every day.

Dear Design Your Wild, How do you take care of these large patches of plants?—Design workshop participant

By thinking in terms of “patches of plants,” not individual plants or even “garden,” you’re halfway to the ecological care mindset: You are nurturing a community. It’s a light touch. Once roots have established after planting, your plant community will largely care for itself.

Caring for your native habitat

After the weather warms in spring to a consistent 50 degrees or more, I may chop or stomp (yes) dead perennial stalks that look unattractive, leaving non-invasive material on the ground, a technique called “chop and drop.” I aim to leave 18-inch stalks for native bees and other insects to use the following winter. Just as often, I leave the dead stalks entirely, knowing they will soon deteriorate or be hidden by new growth. You might find it easier to maintain a larger meadow by having a brush mower cut back everything—most importantly emerging shrubs and trees–every other spring.

In northern states mid-late April should be the earliest you consider cutting back perennials and clearing garden debris. Keep in mind that some bees don’t emerge until late May, so the longer you can tolerate your “messy” garden the better.—Xerces Society

During the growing season, I stroll around my yard with nippers, roughly weekly, and I edit. I remove any invasives I happen to see pop up—cutting the seeders and pulling the rhizotomous ones. (See The Latest on Weeds: Startling insight on why you’ve been removing weeds wrong your whole life). As my patches of native plants fill in, there are fewer invasives to cut.

I also edit native plants: If the woodland sunflowers obscure the sphinxes that guard our front door, I cut them back. If there’s a black-eyed Susan in my purple garden, I cut that to the ground, too. If a native shrub or tree seeds into a meadow area, I cut it back, too.

Someday, maybe, I’ll prune some shrubs to maintain their shapes, best done soon after flowering, as a rough rule. (For how to prune young trees, see To Prune or Not to Prune.) If I had a problem with too tall plants toppling over, I might Chelsea chop next season. I DON’T mulch, fertilize, add compost, weed, irrigate, deadhead, or do “fall cleanup.”

The Zen of hand watering

Most of the work of transforming a yard from turf to native habitat is removing invasives initially, seeding or installing lots and lots of plants, and then watering newly planted areas. Watering is key.

After killing dozens of plants from neglect (OK, hundreds, but who’s counting? … Oops, Pete’s counting and says it’s more like thousands), I have learned to embrace the Zen of hand watering new plantings. I water deeply the base of all new forbs, shrubs, and trees by hose once a week (see “How” below), often while listening to a podcast. To remember to water, I put a “task” in my calendar and move it forward a week when I complete it; if we get an inch of rain, I move the task forward and skip a week. If you don’t have time to hand water, then use a soaker hose, especially around the base of new trees and shrubs.

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When you hand water weekly, you’re closely observing your establishing plant communities, so it’s a good time to remove some invasives. Don’t worry about eradication; think “constant gentle pressure,” in the words of restauranteur Danny Meyer.

You’ll also notice if critters are eating your plants and learn strategies to protect them. For example, I have stopped planting perennial plugs in Rhode Island because the rabbits love these short, tender young plants; we outmaneuver the bunnies by growing from seed—too many for them to keep up with—and planting taller, tougher plants. To protect young shrubs and trees from deer, we spray them with minty Deer Out (or use a motion-activated sprinkler) in summer and fence them in winter. (For more on the deer issue, see Keep Your Plants Safe.)

That’s it.

Dear Design Your Wild, I am adding a rock garden with a dry creek bed running through. What would you suggest putting down on the soil before adding the rocks? I don’t like landscape fabric but I also don’t want plants coming up between the rocks. The neighbors have a hill that rainwater rushes down, across the road, and into our front yard–like a river. We have been amending the soil and planting natives for four years, including a Carex matrix with 300 plugs. Very few are coming up.—Annette, Pittsburg, PA

Rock garden or rain garden? In rock gardens, people plant between sizable rocks or in crevices in exposed outcroppings. The plants are usually alpine or other low-growing species that evolved in similar conditions, often requiring little water and organic matter. If that’s what you’re interested in, you can learn more from the North American Rock Garden Society.

Rock gardens are NOT beds of rocks without plants—a perplexing trend for people who have given up on growing things. In areas like Pittsburgh, which gets more than the average 30 inches of rain per year, plants generally grow among and eventually cover the rocks, unless treated with herbicides, whether or not landscape fabric is installed. Beds of rocks are not a sustainable landscape solution in wet climates.

Rain garden basics

In any case, with all that stormwater runoff, what you really need is a rain garden. That means digging a basin (a ditch) to catch the rainwater coming into your property. Your rain garden might include a rocky dry creek bed where the water enters the basin, because—as you found—rushing water will indeed wash away plants and soil. In rain gardens, plants, not rocks, increase the amount of water that infiltrates into the soil.

Your native plant plugs washed away because the small, young plants were no match for the rushing water. In addition, the most common Carex (pensylvanica), doesn’t like too much water. In a rain garden, water will pool at the bottom, not flow, and plants like the ones below that like their feet wet will thrive.

For DIY rain garden construction details, watch This Old House’s How To Create a Rain Garden, but skip the landscape fabric. You can use horticultural vinegar to remove emerging plants from among the river rocks, if you like. But really, if plants eventually cover your dry creek bed, so much the better.

—Heather

Why, How, Wow!

Why? Rainwater, good; stormwater runoff, bad

Have you ever wondered how much water falls onto your yard during a rainstorm? For example, an inch of rain on an average 13,000 lot produces 8,000 gallons of water—more if you’re receiving runoff from the road or other lots, like my reader. That’s almost a month of indoor water for an average household.

In naturally vegetated landscapes, most of this stormwater absorbs into the soil or evaporates or is transpired by plants, leaving little runoff. In cities, where much of the ground is covered by impervious surfaces—buildings, roads, parking lots, etc.—more than half the total rainfall may become runoff, causing a raft of problems. Lawns contribute to the runoff problem, because they absorb one tenth as much rainwater as natural vegetation, according to the EPA.

Stormwater is a significant source of water pollution and a public health concern for communities across the country. Many have been experiencing stormwater impacts from climate change that have led to flooding, water quality impairments, and soil erosion, with low-income and underserved communities especially feeling the harmful effects.—EPA Report to Congress

Replacing lawn with native plants can solve water incursion problems that are commonly addressed with expensive, professional installations like French drains. Rain gardens can control more extreme runoff challenges.

How: Watering after planting

The roots of newly installed plants establish most successfully when watered regularly and deeply. Once they are established, stop watering please—they’ll thrive and you’ll be protecting our depleting aquifers.

If you receive four inches or more of rain in a month, it’s likely you can avoid supplemental watering during that period, so it’s helpful to time plantings based on expected rainfall, which you can find by searching your location and then scrolling to “Average Monthly Rainfall” at weatherspark.com.

Here are detailed watering guidelines from my friends at Bee Good Landscape in Gainesville, Florida, based on nationally-relevant research by Edward Gilman and others at the University of Florida.

All plants

• Water in the morning, before 10 a.m..

• Water the base of the plant. Leaves and stems do not need to be watered, so concentrate water on the roots. With this in mind, do not use a sprinkler, but direct water by hand or use a soaker or temporary micro irrigation system.

• Do not water if it has rained half an inch within the last day or if the soil around the root ball is saturated.

• Monitor for signs of drought stress like wilting or yellowing leaves, and water before leaves start to fall. This should be continued even after establishment in cases of severe drought.

• Establishment can take up to a year or more for trees and shrubs. Larger trees can need supplemental watering for up to 3 years. Once your plants no longer wilt without watering, they are considered established.

Trees

• <2 inch diameter trunk, 2-3 gallons (e.g., one minute at full pressure on “shower” setting) daily for 2 weeks; every other day for two months; then weekly until establishment

• >2-4 inch diameter trunk, 4-12 gallons daily for one month, every other day for three months, weekly until established

• >4” diameter trunk, >12 gallons daily for six weeks, every other day for five months, weekly until established

  In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation on spring and summer planted trees can usually be discontinued once fall color has begun; irrigate fall planted trees several times and continue until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall and winter planted trees as described for the spring and summer planted trees.—University of Florida

Shrubs

• Frequent shallow waterings are better for establishment than less frequent, deeper waterings. Consistency is key!

• As little as one gallon (e.g., 20 seconds at full pressure on “shower” setting) every eight days may be sufficient to establish a shrub.

• Shrubs planted under existing trees are competing with an established root system and require extra water.

• More frequent watering may increase the vitality of your shrubs.

Herbaceous plants

• Check the soil moisture by sticking a finger half an inch into the soil. If the soil is dry, water your newly planted plants. (Fall-seeded plants do not require watering except in extreme drought.)

• Allow soil to dry out between waterings.

• Look for signs of drought stress like wilting, and water as necessary. It is normal for plants to wilt in the heat of the day, but if they do not perk up in the evening, they are not receiving sufficient water.

Wow! Made in the shade

This month’s Gardens Illustrated, the UK’s leading horticulture magazine, features the Garden in the Woods in Massachusetts. Such shade gardens shine in spring, when many native shrubs flower and ephemeral wildflowers rush to bloom before the canopy above them leafs out. Director of horticulture Uli Lorimer told writer Matt Collins,

It’s that marriage of horticulture and botany together that excites me the most about this garden.—Uli Lorimer

Uli also named his top eight woodland plants, native to the northeast (and, often, beyond):

1. Yellow trillium (Trillium luteum)

2. Great white trillium (Trillium grandiflorum)

3. Creeping dogwood (Cornus canadensis)—a fabulous spreading groundcover in northern states

4. Purple pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea)

5. Red columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)

6. Wild strawberry (Fragaria virginiana)--another fabulous spreading groundcover, native almost nationwide

7. Yellow lady’s slipper (Cypripedium parviflorum)

8. Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida)

Garden in the Woods provides niche conditions for a range of native plants, from low drifts of colourful Phlox divaricata ‘Blue Moon’ and P. stolonifera ‘Sherwood Purple,’ and clumps of yellow Trillium luteum to flowering shrubs including American holly (Ilex opaca) and Carolina rhododendron (Rhododendron minus).—Gardens Illustrated

Yellow roundleaf ragwort (Packera obovata) and pink Geranium maculatum edge a stretch of the mile-long network of trails that weave through the garden.—Gardens Illustrated

Trillium luteum. The luminous yet refined yellow trillium (pictured here with blue Phlox divaricata) is citrus-scented and ephemeral, retreating underground after spring.—Gardens Illustrated

Digging Deeper

• An analysis of data from 75 countries confirms that nature connectedness predicts well-being (PsyPost)

• Widely used pesticides linked to 150% higher cancer risk (SciTechDaily)

• In Norway, a spruce and a spider get a voice in a multispecies assembly (Guardian)

Quick note from Zoe: Happy Spring, everyone!!! Did you know that April is National Native Plant Month? I just love how much this movement is growing. 🌱

And if you know your native plants, I have a favor to ask… The Less Lawn More Life challenge is back this May, now powered by a new tool we’ve been building at Wildr. At its core is a native plant recommendation engine grounded in research, real data, and on-the-ground knowledge… and we need your help to make that happen.

So if you're a botanist, ecologist, master gardener, or just someone who knows your ecoregion's native plants inside and out—PLEASE apply to be a Wildr Expert!

Now, back to Heather!…

Dear Design Your Wild, Do you have any thoughts on permeable pavers like True Grid?? I have thought about this where I help garden (adding many natives). On the grounds, we have a path which is gravel, many years old and gets very weedy. We would like it to be ADA compliant for our cane, walker, and wheelchair users. This is a non-profit religious place with not a lot of money, lots done by volunteers.—Esther, Rochester New York

Not a fan. There are other options that are permeable and ADA compliant—and not plastic. The emerging research on microplastics has hit me like a ton of bricks, so I’m trying to avoid it whenever possible—in the landscape, on my body, in my home (see “Why?” below).

True Grid “pavers” are plastic grids designed to hold gravel in place or create a hard surface under turf. They claim to be ADA compliant, but in my experience such grids become exposed over time and represent a tripping hazard, especially for cane users.

According to the federal agency that develops and maintains requirements under ADA,

Most loose materials, including gravel, will not meet these requirements unless properly treated to provide sufficient surface integrity and resilience. Binders, consolidants, compaction, and grid forms may enable some of these materials to perform satisfactorily but require repeated maintenance.—U.S. Access Board

ADA compliant paths from natural materials

If the current path is straight and its surface even, your least expensive option might be to cover it with Cocopath, an all-natural coir version of the mats used to make beaches accessible.

Wood decking is another accessible, permeable path surface. If you have volunteer carpenters, the cost can be quite reasonable. The lumber and concrete deck blocks for a four-foot-wide path we’re building between our ponds cost $4.50 per square foot.

An option used in major ecological landscaping projects like Brooklyn Bridge Park and the Old Chicago Post Office rooftop is decomposed granite with Organic-Lock stabilizer, sold by Kafka Granite in the U.S. and Envirobond in Canada. The plant-based stabilizer makes the path wheelchair-safe while allowing water to pass through. Installation requires digging the path below grade, laying four inches of stone, then compacting three inches of stabilized decomposed granite. Too much for your volunteers? Have them check out Kafka’s installation video.

Brick, stone, and concrete pathways can also be made permeable and ADA compliant. They are more expensive than decomposed granite and require a similarly deep base of crushed stone (and sand) to remain smooth and level.

Dear Design Your Wild, One thing I don’t like is all the mosquitoes in my yard. Is there a recommendation to get rid of the mosquitoes? Or what do you do with this situation?

You’re in good company! So many readers complain about mosquitos that I delved deep into the research and even visited a Florida mosquito lab. You’ll most likely want to implement a combination of strategies to maximize enjoyment of your yard. For my top recommendations, including which repellents to use, how to eliminate breeding areas, and how to build a DIY screen house, read Avoid Mosquito Bites in Your Yard.

—Heather

Why, How, Wow!

Why? Microplastics everywhere

All of a sudden, scientists are finding microplastics everywhere—in our bodies, in organic vegetables, and even in remote forests.

They drift in through the air, settle onto leaves high in the canopy, and slowly make their way down to the forest floor. Over time, they build up in the soil, turning forests into hidden storage sites for plastic pollution. … To understand how this buildup happens, researchers studied several forest sites in Germany. … Using advanced measurement techniques, they traced how much plastic had accumulated and where it came from. … Their findings suggest that forests have been collecting airborne plastic since at least the 1950s.—earth.com

Although these plastic bits have been building in us and our environments for decades, little is known about their impact on us and the ecosystems we inhabit. Nor is much known about the PFAs (“forever chemicals”) used to make plastics resistant to heat, oil, stains, grease, and water, but what is known is deeply frightening.

While less than 1 percent of the 12,000 or so PFAS compounds have been tested for toxicity, the (abbreviated) list of maladies linked to them, even at tiny concentrations, includes decreased fertility, pregnancy complications, weakened immune systems, kidney and testicular cancers, liver damage, obesity, and hormone interference, according to a review of the scientific literature by the Environmental Protection Agency. Infant deaths tripled for mothers living downstream from PFAS-contaminated water, a 2025 study found.—The Washington Post [gift link]

The solutions to microplastic and PFA pollution will be big and systemic—like plastic-eating bacteria, plant-based plastics, and large-scale PFA filters. But while scientists develop these, I’m trying to decrease my use of plastic, especially with respect to sources of microplastics, both to lessen my personal impact and to send a message to manufacturers that consumers don’t want plastic. I’ve found the easiest way to do this is to stop buying synthetic textiles.

Fleece jackets, yoga pants, polyester shirts, nylon leggings, microfiber cloths, and other synthetic textiles are the largest source of microplastics. For me, it’s easy to limit my new clothing to wool, linen, cotton, silk, and rayon/viscose (sometimes with a bit of synthetic for stretch). I’m also looking into washing machine filters, because a single wash of synthetic clothing can release hundreds of thousands of fibers. (Please let me know in the comments if you’ve done the research and can recommend a filter.)

How: Reducing plastic in the yard

Contemporary landscaping involves a lot of plastic, too. Here’s how I’m trying to avoid introducing them into my yard:

• Recycling plastic nursery pots or giving them to a small nursery that will reuse them.

• Not buying bags of soil, fertilizer, or other amendments. (If you missed it, read Why the World Needs “Bad” Soil.)

• Never using landscape fabric, which doesn’t work anyway. (Read Cass Marketos’ On the Problem of Landscape Tarp.)

• Favoring wood and metal patio furniture. Keep in mind that vinyl, acrylic (used to make Sunbrella), and polyester filling are all forms of plastic. So is much outdoor furniture marketed as “rope” or “rattan.”

• Stopping solarizing with plastic.

• Banning plastic edging and vinyl fencing.

• Choosing tools made of wood and/or metal whenever possible.

After much research into alternatives, however, I concluded that plastic pond liners are currently the most feasible option that’s healthy for other organisms. Galvanized steel, for example, leaches zinc, which can be toxic to fish. Concrete is difficult to work with, not a sustainable material, and risks creating a big concrete mistake—and related waste. To me, the wildlife value of backyard ponds offsets the negative effect of the plastic. Within a day of installing our ponds this month, more birds and butterflies arrived in our yard.

Wow! Natural, ADA compliant pathways

Terremoto landscape architects used decomposed granite paths and wood bridges to connect areas of a shared community garden in Riverside, California. The garden also includes bleacher seating, a large central meeting tree, an activity plaza, vegetable beds, a stormwater swale and vibrant native plantings. Around the garden are 1920s craftsman-style bungalows developed as a safe, inclusive, and nurturing environment for the formerly homeless, LGBTQ+ community, senior citizens, and young people coming out of the foster care system.

In addition to converting the bungalows into transitional housing for up to 50 persons, the [Hopson Rodstrom Design] architects incorporated covered porches that modulate between the homes with some jutting out and others wrapping around corners at the rear of each house. Simple yet substantial, these shaded outdoor spaces sport wood decking and standing-seam metal roofing painted to match the house color. They help foster a neighborly environment for the residents but also act as transition zones between each of the homes and the public garden.—Terremoto

Final Live Webinar for Premium Subscribers

Here’s Exactly How to Build Your Wildlife Pond

Tuesday, April 7, 6 pm E.T.
If you’ve always wanted to create a small pond but have been too intimidated to start, this is for you. Wildlife need clean drinking water to survive and many threatened species breed or live in water. Unfortunately, many sources make pond building overly complicated—and less valuable for wildlife. By the time you leave this interview with author of Building Natural Ponds (and Garden Myths) Robert Pavlis, you’ll be ready to build your wildlife pond—without pumps, filters, or chemicals.

Can’t make the live webinar date? The recording will be available for a limited time after the event and will be shared with people who registered in advance.

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Subscribe now to receive the registration link, plus recordings of our sketching and small yard design workshops.

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Dear Design Your Wild, I am helping my niece with her 1990s first home and backyard planning—not a single tree, on a hill, corner lot, terrible soil, not even grass grows. I think the first year will focus mainly on soil building for future planting beds… A colleague at the extension office said many homes built in this time period had the top soil scraped off and the homeowner had the option to buy it; many didn’t.—Nancy, Burlington, WI

“Not even grass grows!” If I had a penny for every time I’ve heard that, I’d have… um,... at least a dollar. European cold season turf grasses—which make up lawns in northern states—are NOT the easiest plants in the world to grow. Sure, they germinate quickly. But if they were easy to maintain, we wouldn’t have a $12 billion per year lawn chemical industry.

My attitude toward soil is similar to the Scandinavian attitude toward weather and clothes: There’s no bad soil, only bad plants. The idea of “poor soil” comes from agriculture, the source of many incorrect notions about ornamental horticulture. By all means, one soil will grow bigger tomatoes than another. But nutrient-dense agricultural soil favors invasive plants and makes native perennials grow so fast and tall they flop over. As always, the north star is right plant, right place.

Yes, the developer of your niece’s lot probably scraped off and sold elsewhere the top soil that had developed there over hundreds of years. The inorganic subsoil that remained—a mixture of clay, sand, silt, and broken-down rock—compacted into a stable, solid base for the foundation, preventing settling over time. This subsoil lacks organic material, but there are plants that evolved to grow in similar conditions.

Whole communities need “bad” soil

Flash floods, landslides, glacial movement, even wildfires can expose subsoil or deplete the soil of organic material. The plants that manage to establish and grow in the aftermath of such disturbances are called “pioneer species.” Their roots and shoots—but mostly roots—develop the soil structure that enables other species to follow.

Fungi, insects, birds and other wildlife also evolved to live in these disturbed environments. In fact, areas where topsoil has been removed are so valuable to invertebrates that they are classified as priority habitat in the UK. To maximize biodiversity, British horticulturalist John Little plants into sand, crushed construction waste, and even crushed asphalt and coal.

Many of the aggregates have very low nutrient levels allowing wildflowers to thrive without grasses and other plants out-competing them. ... To reduce fertility and increase the stress, so plant communities evolve more slowly, John sometimes strips the topsoil and uses it elsewhere, such as a vegetable patch.—Royal Horticultural Society

Plants build soil best

My recommendation? Save time and money by skipping the “building the soil” stage and start planting pioneer species that will do the work for you—and do it better. Recent research shows it’s the roots, not the shoots used to create compost, that build soil structure (see “Why?”). An added benefit is that you and your niece can support the wildlife that depend on them, as well as create privacy for her, by installing pioneer plants on her property (e.g., quaking aspen, paper birch, jack pine, sand cherry, prairie willow, American hazelnut, sweetfern). As maturing Wisconsin forests shift toward shade-tolerant species, forest species adapted to disturbance are in decline.

So here’s some exciting news: World-renowned Roy Diblik’s nursery, Northwind Perennial Farm, is in your hometown! Diblik has been a longtime partner of Dutch garden designer Piet Oudolf and, for example, played a crucial role in the creation of Chicago’s Lurie Garden in Millennium Park, growing, supplying, and helping to install more than 25,000 perennials for the project. Ask his team to recommend plants that will thrive in the conditions on your niece’s lot.

Happy digging!

—Heather

Why, How, Wow!

Why? Healthy soil = lots of necromass

As Robert Pavlis of Garden Myths points out,

The latest studies show that the best way to build healthy soil is with necromass. Necromass is defined as a collection of dead organisms, but in soil it consists mostly of dead microbes. Even though most gardeners have never heard of it, it is essential for increasing soil organic carbon and building healthy soil.

Microbes have short lives and naturally die off quickly. … Accumulated necromass is responsible for aggregate formation—that crumbly soil all gardeners want. Better aggregation results in more soil organic carbon, better drainage, better aeration and larger pore spaces for plant roots. These aggregates have been found to be very stable and seem to be the best way to sequester carbon in soil.—Garden Myths

The best way to build necromass is to increase the volume of microbes in the soil by feeding them. And the most efficient way to feed microbes is to grow plants, not add mulch or soil amendments, which are derived from dead plant shoots (above ground material). Microbes expend a lot of energy to decompose the large lignin and cellulose molecules in shoots. In contrast, the “exudates” plants excrete through their roots, which represent up to half the molecules they produce from photosynthesis, are small and easily digested by microbes.

Initially it was thought that exudates consisted mostly of sugars and other carbohydrates but it is now known that they include a wide range of compounds including amino acids, proteins, fatty acids, sterols, anthocyanins and flavonoids, to name a few. …

Some scientists estimate that living roots may be as much as five times more effective at building healthy soil compared to organic matter from shoots.—Garden Myths

How: Keep living roots in the soil all the time.

Based on the latest research, Pavlis concludes,

The new focus should be directed towards growing lots of roots and keeping living roots in the soil all of the time.

Here are my tips for building soil structure ecologically, derived from Pavlis’s analysis:

1. Do not leave soil bare.*

2. Everywhere except paths and rooms, install dense layers deep-rooted of native plants—groundcovers, shrubs, trees. Cover soil around new plants with a temporary mulch of up to three inches of dead leaves.

3. Plant different species to increase the microbe diversity.

4. Disturb soil as little as possible. Tilling destroys the structure of aggregates and speeds up the loss of necromass.

5. Rather than removing turf, consider treating it as a cover crop and plant into turf.

6. Seed bare soil with an inexpensive cover crop like Canada or Virginia wild rye, which will grow quickly while slower perennials and grasses establish.

7. Leave non-seeding weeds unless they are causing a problem. Weed roots are better than no roots.

8. Ensure new plants get enough water to establish (e.g., equivalent to one inch of rain per week for six months).

9. Close the nutrient loop by using “chop and drop" method, leaving dead wood, stems, and leaves to decompose where they fall.

* Leave some sunny, bare soil for bees. Around 70% of native bee species nest in the ground and prefer patches of bare ground without a lot of mulch or dense vegetation. The spaces around native clumping grasses and wildflowers are sufficient. (See Xerces Society’s Clear Space for Bees.)

Wow! Lush gardens through the seasons

Have blooms started to emerge in your area? They have here in north Florida. I’m carefully watching the succession of spring blossoms on native trees and shrubs so I can fill in any gaps in my new garden. So far, in order: flatwoods plum, redbud, red buckeye, fringe tree.

These residential gardens by Northwind Perennial Farm illustrate the succession of perennial blooms from summer through fall. I especially love the pink-white Lindheimer’s beeblossom, native to south Texas and Louisiana.

Digging Deeper

• Love birds? Here’s a secret recording of our Designing Gardens for Birds workshop, hosted last week by Cornell Lab of Ornithology.

• Talk about areas inhospitable to plants, there’s a once-in-a-decade superbloom right now in Death Valley, the driest place in North America and hottest place on earth. Learn more

• Rethinking hardscape: A new analysis finds that some 44% of Los Angeles County’s 312,000 acres of pavement may not be essential for roads, sidewalks or parking, and could be reconsidered. Learn more

• The surprising health benefits of natural light exposure: Even an extra 5 to 10 minutes of sunlight each day can help regulate your sleep, mood and more. Learn more [gift link]

• Planning summer travel? Some of my favorite gardens in the world are on this list of the most beautiful gardens to visit in southern England from Travel & Leisure.

For Premium Subscribers

Ditch the AI, Grab a Tablet: Real Garden Design Sketching

NEXT WEEK: Tuesday, March 24, 6 pm E.T.
Want to actually see what your design will look like before you dig? In this hands-on workshop, artist and landscape designer Liza Kiesler of Viburnum Gardens will teach you (and Zoe and me) to test your ideas by sketching them onto photographs. Sketching will also improve your attention span, ability to stay focused, and your ability to think outside stereotypes (The Cognitive Benefits of Art). No drawing experience necessary—but iPads and Apple Pencils recommended.

Here’s Exactly How to Build Your Wildlife Pond

Tuesday, April 7, 6 pm E.T.
If you’ve always wanted to create a small pond but have been too intimidated to start, this is for you. Wildlife need clean drinking water to survive and many threatened species breed or live in water. Unfortunately, many sources make pond building overly complicated—and less valuable for wildlife. By the time you leave this interview with author of Building Natural Ponds (and Garden Myths) Robert Pavlis, you’ll be ready to build your wildlife pond—without pumps, filters, or chemicals.

Can’t make the live webinar dates? Recordings will be available for a limited time after the event and will only be shared with people who registered in advance.

To register

Subscribe now to receive registration links to all three webinars.

Subscribe now

Already a premium subscriber? Use the registration links here. (If you can see those links, you’re a paying subscriber.)

Dear Design Your Wild, I’m meeting with a landscaper next week and need some concrete (lol!) ideas on materials to replace our badly cracked patio. I have a large, narrow back yard that I plan to “terrace” into rooms to slow water runoff. My rooms will be a patio, a water feature, a bed of native, sun-loving bloomers around a tree, a green space for dogs, and a quiet shady area with a hammock. I have thought about slate, but I don’t want to introduce too many colors. We have a brown deck with black metal railings and my Colonial house is three sides brick, one side hardy plank.—Kim, Richmond, VA

I love your idea for a stepped series of rooms to solve your runoff issues and draw you into your backyard! And I applaud your hesitation about adding another hardscape material. In fact, to keep the materials palette cohesive, I advise planning any retaining walls and steps at the same time, even if you intend to build them later.

In addition to the existing materials, sources of inspiration include local stone, the history of your region, the architecture of your house, and the style of yard you want to create—your yardenality. I also recommend taking into account cost and environmental impact.

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Too often homeowners spend most of their budget on hardscaping, making plants an afterthought. Lush, layered planting will make your back yard fabulous—and absorb much more stormwater than lawn, too. I advise using the minimum amount of hardscape necessary to make your yard a place you and your household will want to spend time and enjoy viewing from inside.

In fact, simply removing your cracked patio and replacing it with a patch of lawn surrounded by native plants is an inexpensive, sustainable, and attractive replacement for your cracked patio. You can certainly enjoy sitting in chairs around a firepit on lawn. Whatever surface you choose for the patio, I suggest moving the patio further away from the house so you can add plenty of green enclosure between the house and the patio, and between the fence and the patio.

Brick hardscaping: Sustainable and chic

A brick—ideally, used brick—patio, steps, and low retaining walls will complement your home’s Colonial style, connect the back of the house to the brick facade, and reflect Richmond history, the spirit of place (”genus loci”). All the historic hidden gardens of Richmond have brick hardscaping. Brick also fits stylistically with the classic design of your black railing. And brick is relatively inexpensive and sustainable and will contrast beautifully with the greenery.

I hope you aren’t scared away by the formality of traditional Virginia gardens with brick walkways, a yardenality Zoe and I call Courtyard Chic. You can certainly incorporate lots of native plants into Courtyard Chic, as in the example below in Texas (with a fence that reminds me of yours). But brick is also characteristic of Blooming Romantic gardens, like Vita Sackville-West’s Sissinghurst.

Timber: Lowest carbon footprint

Or you can lean into the more naturalistic A Walk in the Park yardenality with a wood patio, steps, and/or retaining walls. Natural timber generally has the lowest carbon footprint of any hardscaping material, other than stone, wood chips, or used materials sourced on site or locally. I like timber used sparingly for steps and low retaining walls, like you see below. Wood is lightweight and easy to work with, making it a good DIY choice. It’s not as long lasting as stone, obviously, but it probably lasts long enough. (You may be wondering about pressure treated lumber; see “How” below.)

Tip: To make a wood patio look built-in, build a solid step up to it and choose plants that will hide the edges. If you don’t DIY, you may have to hire a carpenter instead of a landscaper.

Gravel—on its own or in combination

Gravel is another cost-effective, relatively sustainable patio material, which you might combine with brick or timber. For example, you could use brick or timber for the retaining walls, stair risers, and patio edges, then use brown or grey gravel (or natural lawn!) for the stair treads and patio floor. Four to six inches of pea gravel is an inexpensive and relatively sustainable hardscape solution that suits many yardenalities. Small, locally sourced stones cost less, require fewer resources to produce and transport, and—unlike concrete—allow rainwater to soak into the ground instead of being sent elsewhere as runoff.

But pea gravel is not maintenance-free. In Richmond and other areas with adequate rainfall, plants will seed into the gravel and someone will have to remove them periodically—manually, with horticultural vinegar or, as Zoe does, with a blow torch (seriously). Whatever you do, do not use landscape cloth underneath; it does not prevent weeds and eventually breaks down into a mess of plastic bits, leaching toxic microplastics into groundwater that eventually find their way into our drinking water (and bodies).

Above all, enjoy!

—Heather

P.S. Curious about yardenalities? Read Design Shortcut for a Backyard Makeover: Yardenalities™ 2.0.

Why, How, Wow!

Why? The cost, climate, and ecology calculus

I love the clarity of planting natives: It’s a good thing. Unfortunately, choosing the “best” hardscape material requires balancing competing priorities with inadequate information. When adding a new surface, permeability is a must. Using natural materials sourced on site—e.g., branches, wood chips, rocks, shells—is always a good thing. Beyond that, we must each develop our own imperfect algorithms to balance cost, carbon footprint, ecological impact, and personal health and enjoyment.

To assist your decision making, here is some data on cost and global warming potential of various hardscape materials. Unfortunately, I was unable to a comparable comparison of the ecological impact of chemicals leaching from these materials into the soil and groundwater—something I’m trying to take into account in my own yard.

How: My personal algorithm in practice

For a 20 to 25 foot walkway from the existing cement patio between two ponds to our backyard, I’ve been researching pressure treated pine, given its much lower cost compared to natural cedar (about a quarter of the price) and its ready availability in the sizes we need. Beyond our little yard, safe, inexpensive, long-lasting timber is important to solving the housing crisis with the lowest climate impact.

It turns out most online information about pressure-treated wood is obsolete. Arsenic hasn’t been used for residential applications for more than 20 years, for example. Nor is copper or other heavy metals used to treat the Severe Weather brand available at our local Lowe’s.

Severe Weather treated lumber contributes points toward a building's certification under the National Green Building Standard™. According Dupont, the biocide used in Severe Weather (DCOI) biodegrades quickly in both soil and water (see details here). But I’m skeptical of any biocide—and especially skeptical of what chemical companies claim about the safety of their products.

What would you choose if you were me—cedar or Severe Weather pressure treated lumber?

Wow! Recycled bricks add style in native gardens

Prism Landscapes designed this beautiful, informal yard with recycled brick, gravel, and native plants.

Digging Deeper

• A new study in the journal Science suggests the need to plant natives to support birds is even more pressing than previously thought: population decline among a quarter of tracked species is accelerating. Declines are greatest in warmer areas, such as the Southeast, while acceleration is greatest in areas of agricultural intensity. To learn more about how to help turn this around, join Zoe and me this Sunday at 5 pm E.T. for a free yard design workshop focusing on features for birds through Cornell Lab of Ornithology. Register here.

• In an article about glyphosate driving a rift in MAHA, Scientific American describes why its impact on humans is difficult to nail down, with this frightening conclusions:

“We’re just at the beginning of studying glyphosate, but we absolutely must study it, given it is the most commonly used herbicide in the world,” she says. “Even a small, tiny effect, if it’s real, can have a huge public health impact because so many people would be exposed.”—Scientific American

For Premium Subscribers

Ditch the AI, Grab a Tablet: Real Garden Design Sketching

Tuesday, March 24, 6 pm E.T.
Want to actually see what your design will look like before you dig? In this hands-on workshop, artist and landscape designer Liza Kiesler of Viburnum Gardens will teach you (and Zoe and me) to test your ideas by sketching them onto photographs. Sketching will also improve your attention span, ability to stay focused, and your ability to think outside stereotypes (The Cognitive Benefits of Art). No drawing experience necessary—but iPads and Apple Pencils recommended.

Here’s Exactly How to Build Your Wildlife Pond

Tuesday, April 7, 6 pm E.T.
If you’ve always wanted to create a small pond but have been too intimidated to start, this is for you. Wildlife need clean drinking water to survive and many threatened species breed or live in water. Unfortunately, many sources make pond building overly complicated—and less valuable for wildlife. By the time you leave this interview with scientist and author of Building Natural Ponds Robert Pavlis, you’ll be ready to build your wildlife pond—without pumps, filters, or chemicals.

Can’t make the live webinar dates? Recordings will be available for a limited time after the event and will only be shared with people who registered in advance.

To register

Subscribe now to receive registration links to all three webinars.

Subscribe now

Already a premium subscriber? Use the registration links here. (If you can see those links, you’re a paying subscriber.)

Dear Yardener,

There’s still time to register for tonight’s workshop, Plan Now for a Small Backyard You’ll Love [registration info below], our first winter webinar. I’m so excited to share the new process we’ve developed to quickly design restorative small (200 to 2,000 square foot) outdoor spaces. But the steps to a fabulous yard are essentially the same whether you have 200 square feet or 18 acres. Here’s an overview, originally published three years ago and updated with our latest methodologies.

—Heather

Dear Design Your Wild, My wife and I bought an 18-acre farm-turned-golf course, complete with six acres of greens and an acre pond. The rest of the property is wooded. We’d love to restore it into a permaculture wonderland, full of botanical surprises and sacred space. We planted a small wildflower meadow and an orchard in the front yard. However, we need a bigger vision to create something beautiful (and environmentally responsible) for our family’s future. We’re on a limited budget and will be doing a lot of the work ourselves.—Christof, Freedom, ME

“Botanical surprises and sacred space.” I love that! Here’s how to create a bigger vision—a overall plan that you’ll implement over many years. It will help you prioritize, budget, establish appropriate scale, minimize regrets, and bolster your patience.

Step 1: Imagining

What features and destinations can you imagine drawing you into your landscape so you can fully occupy it? In our follow-up Zoom conversation, you mentioned several uses in addition to the meadow and orchard: a vegetable garden, a rose garden, a sauna hut, and a path and chapel in the woods. You’ll also want an outdoor sitting and eating area off the house and a large, flat grassy area for outdoor games like boules, badminton, and croquet. What else? A labyrinth? Allee? Treehouse? And how about practical needs—privacy hedges, parking spaces?

Let your imagination run wild, fueled by travel, fantasy, and favorite activities. Visit public and private gardens for ideas, paying attention to uses, shapes, and scale—the width of paths, the depth of a flower border, the height of a hedge, the diameter of a seating area—rather than plants.

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Step 2: Surveying and mapping the landscape

To scale and locate your destinations appropriately, it’s essential to place them into a map of your property and its existing conditions—i.e., whatever you intend to keep. These conditions include the house, barn, driveway, parking area, pond, major plantings, and underground utilities. Start with a Google satellite image of the entire property, plus any surveys and floorplans you already have. 

A rough sketch is sufficient for big properties like yours. But even you will benefit from a detailed sketch of smaller garden rooms like your seating and easting areas and vegetable garden. Start with a scale outline on graph paper (1/4” = 1’ scale), orienting your survey as if viewed from front door looking out; you will experience your landscape from inside the house as much or more than outside, so map the locations of key windows (and doors) and any permanent features you see from them.

Step 3: Putting places in that plan

The next step is to place your destinations and their connecting paths on your map or scale sketches. As a very rough rule, “garden rooms” get bigger as you get further from the house, and larger properties call for longer paths and larger rooms. Start by cutting out and labeling shapes for each element, then arrange them on the site plan, using removable tape to keep them in place once you have an arrangement you like. [Prefer to draw on a tablet? See “How” below.]

Now, go outside and test your preliminary plan. Measure out the destinations and mark them with flags. Are they too big? Too small? The tendency will be to make them too small and to put them too close together. Walk the paths, noting your views and how comfortable the distances are. Think about how you will plant the “negative space” between them; those parts of your six-acre lawn that are neither grassy destinations nor paths will eventually be planted. Adjust the plan.

Muse. Walk again. Adjust. At some point, you might want to switch from cut-and-tape to sketching in pencil on tracing paper over your survey. Your overall plan will continue to evolve as long as you own the property.

When do the plants come in?

As you rework your overall plan, you’ll be thinking about plantings. Most important is shape and scale: Do you want a tree here as a focal point from the kitchen window? A grouping of tall shrubs there to screen the view of the road? You can also research plants native to your ecoregion and start a spreadsheet with info about your existing plants and those you may want to add. (Fun update: Zoe’s been hard at work with the Wildr team building a tool to help you choose the right native plants and create real backyard habitat. It launches this spring—join the beta waitlist here.)

Once you have a overall plan, pick an area to start planting when the time is right (usually early spring or fall)—then plan again, this time a more detailed plan of plants, hardscaping, and other elements. The process will be iterative, with budget constraints forcing creativity and trying your patience—and, more likely than not, improving the outcome.

—Heather

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Why, How, Wow!

Why?

Just like a floorplan of a house, a landscape plan will give a purpose to every part of a property. In an ecological landscape, areas without a specific use will be planted to benefit wildlife—generally in one of three archetypes: meadow, shrubland, and forest. In the plans for both Hortulus Farm, below, and the small urban yard above, each part of the property has a purpose.

How 

If you have an iPad and Apple Pencil, load your lot map and watch Zoe and my 90-minute workshop, Turn that Patch into a Plan. Or register below for tonight’s workshop with a new process especially for outdoor spaces under 2,000 square feet.

You will find my favorite planning tools useful: a measuring wheel (pictured) and landscape flags. For small spaces or garden rooms, I also recommend graph paper and, if you’re not using an iPad, tracing paper and landscape stencils.

Wow!

Their allée of ‘Heritage’ river birch and ostrich and cinnamon ferns illustrates Renny Reynolds and Jack Staub’s approach to planning to surprise and delight at Hortulus Farm.

What viewsheds did we already possess that might begin to dictate a plan? What sites were ripe for “destination” status, and how would one perceive that one had arrived at such? What focal points might be in the running to herald said arrival? How would the eye be focused and directed, and how would one travel through the gardens? Paths? Steps? Lanes? Bridges? And what of the idea of progression?—Chasing Eden

Related Resources

• Interested in how extraordinary gardens are planned? Read Chasing Eden and Vita Sackville-West's Sissinghurst: The Creation of a Garden (but substitute natives for any planting you admire, natch).

• Need inspiration? Visit private gardens during open days hosted by the Garden Conservancy (ditto re plantings).

• Want to put some intellectual rigor behind designing plant communities? Read Garden Revolution and Planting in a Post-Wild World.

For Paying Subscribers

We have three private webinars coming up soon!

Plan Now for a Small Backyard You’ll Love

TODAY! Tuesday, February 17, 6 pm E.T.
Small yard? Big potential. In this hands-on workshop, Zoe and I will show you how to apply our design approach to small spaces (200 to 2,000 SF). We’ll teach you layout strategies to make balconies and urban outdoor spaces feel larger, function better, and support more wildlife: where to put paths, how to create privacy without blocking light, and how to think about structure and habitat in minimal space. You’ll sketch your own plan and walk away knowing exactly what to do next.

Ditch the AI, Grab a Tablet: Real Garden Design Sketching

Tuesday, March 24, 6 pm E.T.
Tired of those AI garden renders that look completely unhinged? Want to actually see what your design will look like before you dig? In this hands-on workshop, artist and landscape designer Liza Kiesler of Viburnum Gardens will teach you (and Zoe and me) to test your ideas by sketching them onto photographs. Sketching will also improve your attention span, ability to stay focused, and your ability to think outside stereotypes (The Cognitive Benefits of Art). No drawing experience necessary!

Here’s Exactly How to Build Your Wildlife Pond

Tuesday, April 7, 6 pm E.T.
If you’ve always wanted to create a small pond but have been too intimidated to start, this is for you. Wildlife need clean drinking water to survive and many threatened species breed or live in water. Unfortunately, many sources make pond building overly complicated—and less valuable for wildlife. By the time you leave this interview with scientist and author of Building Natural Ponds Robert Pavlis, you’ll be ready to build your wildlife pond—without pumps, filters, or chemicals.

Can’t make the live webinar dates? Recordings will be available for a limited time after the event and will only be shared with people who registered in advance.

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Subscribe now to receive registration links to all three webinars.

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Dear Design Your Wild, I just recently learned that I should be pruning young trees as they grow, something I know basically nothing about. Always something new to learn with native plants!

I apologize, dear reader. I replied to your above comment, “There are no shoulds after ‘right plant, right place.’ Those trees do fine in nature without any help.” I was wrong.

First, I neglected to say that watering after transplanting is another “should.” And as I dug into research by structural-pruning legend Edward F. Gilman of the University of Florida, I learned that newly planted trees need more water than I had previously recommended. (New guidelines below.)

All that sun isn’t natural

More relevant to your question, Gilman’s research convinced me that structural pruning of young trees is another should—or at least “worth considering”—for trees destined to be large or to overhang a walkway or seating area. As he points out, the way we plant trees in our landscapes is not natural: Trees in both nurseries and human landscapes are often “open grown”—i.e., spaced so as to give them sunlight all around. In nature, trees generally grow closely together among more established trees, receiving much less sunlight when they are young.

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With the excess sunlight human landscapes provide, trees generate more branches and retain low ones they would naturally shed for lack of sunlight. Some branches receive enough sunlight to develop into a second trunk—called a codominant stem—that competes with the main stem or “leader.” Gilman demonstrated experimentally that removing extra branches and codominant stems make trees more stable during during snow, ice, and wind storms.

Twenty trees were blown using a wind generator up to 45 m/s (110 mph) maintained for 3 min. Each tree was instrumented with three orientation sensors at set heights along the trunk to measure its deflection. Thinning or reducing crowns significantly reduced upper trunk movement at all wind speeds, whereas raising did not. Lower trunk movement was not affected by pruning type.—Arboriculture & Urban Forestry

Valuable to wildlife, costly to humans

Dead trees per se are not an ecological tragedy; they support thousands of species—from woodpeckers to cavity nesters to microscopic fungi—and we need more dead wood in our landscapes to replace these creatures’ lost habitat. However, when large trees fail in human landscapes instead of the wild, we can suffer not only property damage, but the emotional toll of losing an aesthetic feature that the vast majority of us can only afford to replace with a much smaller tree. (The truly tragic—serious injury and death from falling trees—is fortunately exceedingly rare.) Unfortunately, the high cost of arboriculture—driven by its risks, specialized equipment, and insurance costs, as well as the skills involved—provides a motive for professionals to exaggerate these risks (a bias well documented by research, even among doctors).

So, dear reader, you are right. You should probably learn to evaluate and prune your young trees. Then evaluate each tree individually, weighing the benefits of pruning, given its location and eventual size against the potential harm to the tree of creating open wounds and decreasing its photosynthetic capacity. Structural pruning while trees are young is less costly to both you and the tree. Read on for evidence-based structural pruning guidelines.

Wait! I forgot another should: You should plant more trees (learn why). Good luck!

—Heather

P.S. I’d love to hear from readers with hands-on experience pruning young trees! Please comment below.

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P.P.S. Re watering transplanted trees, a grand simplification of Gilman’s research-based recommendations for vigor is to water newly transplanted young trees (trunks under two inches) daily for two weeks, every other day for two months, and weekly until established—which can vary from three months in Miami to 12 months in Minneapolis. See Gilman’s tree irrigation guidelines.

P.P.P.S. Right now is a great time to buy saplings inexpensively through your local conservation district seedling sales. Search for “conservation district” + “seedling sale” + near me. Tree and shrub seedlings don’t experience transplant shock so catch up quickly to nursery grown plants. Install them close to each other—one every two square feet—to encourage rapid growth.

Why, How, Wow!

Why? Reducing future failure without damaging

Codominant stems threaten a tree’s health because bark can become trapped in the joint between them—called “included bark”—acting as a wedge and increasing the likelihood the tree will split. When a mature tree splits, the wound is often so large the tree is unable to recover and eventually dies.

Extra branches and retained lower branches, compared to forest trees, can create attachments and a less aerodynamic structure, also increasing the likelihood of failure during a storm. Vertical branches (less than 45 degree angle to the trunk) and branches that are more than 50 percent the diameter of the trunk have relatively weaker attachments than more horizontal and thinner branches. Low branches around areas where people walk or drive can also be a hazard.

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Balancing the benefits of pruning is the potential to harm the tree. Pruning is wounding, opening the tree, literally, to pathogens. According to plant pathologist Alex L. Shigo’s broadly-accepted CODIT model, trees don’t heal like animals, they compartmentalize. They respond to injury by forming internal boundaries that restrict decay and protect vital tissues. The process of isolating damaged tissue and sealing it off takes energy away from normal growth and development.

If we over prune, trees may respond by sending up thin, fast-growing shoots from their branches, called water sprouts, or their roots, called suckers. Live oaks, crabapples, dogwoods, maples, American hazelnuts, pawpaw, hawthorn, willows, black locusts, and various wild plums are especially susceptible. This can create a perpetual cycle of pruning and regrowth, making gardeners feel needed—and landscapers more profitable—without improving tree health.

How? Pruning is a skill—and an art.

Pruning trees is a skill best learned in a workshop, according to Bram Gunther, former head of forestry for the City of New York and a colleague of my daughter Zoe’s at Plan it Wild. Search “‘structural pruning’ + workshop + near me.” I’m certainly not going to attempt to teach you in this newsletter!

If you prefer to learn online, look for materials from a forest service or university extension program, which are most likely to be evidence-based. Start with the video introduction below from the Kansas Forest Service; it’s the best among many I watched. Before you take pruners to any tree, I recommend you also Google “pruning + [species name] + extension” to find reliable species-specific guidance.

See also the University of Florida’s pruning guide, including sections on timing and frequency—basically, when planting and 2, 4, 8, 14, and 25 years after. When you cannot reach high enough to prune from the ground, it’s time to call in a professional; search for one at the International Society of Arboriculture.

Having fallen down the pruning rabbit hole, how does this affect what I’m going to do in my yard?

• Newly planted 3-foot flatwoods plum: Trim vertical sprouts on stem after flowering (which has already begun); over time, maintain a single leader and remove low branches over driveway.

• Newly planted 6-foot fringe tree: Leave as is. It’s a small, shrub-like, multi-stemmed tree and doesn’t need a single leader.

• 25-foot Florida maple: Use pole saw to cut back (reduce) the smaller of two codominant stems to a lateral branch (up to 50 percent), and repeat in a year or two, if necessary. The codominant stem should subordinate over time. [My husband Pete, who studied trees as a wildlife biologist, says he wouldn’t do anything; maybe I’ll just remove 25 percent of the stem.]

• 75-foot live oak that hangs over our roof: Keep an eye on the fork between two codominant trunks. The swelling and darkened color suggests included bark. 😬[Pete: “It has done just fine for 100 years.”]

Wow! A beautiful tree-filled landscape

Finally, here’s some eye candy to remind you how beautiful tree-filled landscapes can be. Landscape architect Mary Dargan designed this yard at a North Carolina mountain retreat.

When she came on board, Dargan says, “there was nothing but grass and a couple of moth-eaten mountain laurels.” And so she conjured up a plan that wove plenty of function into the greenery—imparting “a feeling of transitional spaces and rooms” screened off by plantings, each terraced section flowing downhill into the next; harmonizing with the river and more than eighty inches of yearly rainfall to “direct, absorb, and enjoy water across the site”; using native plants whenever possible to welcome beneficial insects and songbirds (while including exotic species as needed, especially those like hellebores that deer find distasteful); installing “permeable paving” in the form of local river rock. A decade in, Dargan’s botanical acumen has helped transform the plot into a lush, verdant Southern Appalachian refuge—one that somehow feels like both an extension of the forest and a ferny oasis within it.—Garden & Gun

Upcoming Workshops

Open to Everyone

Yardenalities™: A Design Shortcut for a Backyard Makeover—TUESDAY!
Register for Yardenalities workshop on February 3 @ noon E.T. at Homegrown National Park.

Designing Gardens for Birds
Register for designing gardens for birds workshop on March 8 @ 5 p.m. E.T. at Cornell Lab.

Only for Paying Subscribers

We’re offering three winter webinars to thank paying subscribers for supporting our work and keeping the newsletter free for everyone. Read more about them here.

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Woohoo! Zoe and I are thrilled to announce our new webinar series!

We’ve received rave reviews from thousands of participants in our latest workshops, because we work hard to make them interactive and practical. We’re continuing to apply Zoe’s background in neuroscience and behavioral change, as well as our shared sense of fun, to ensure you’ll come away inspired and with practical ways to improve your yard.

Zoe and I offer most of our webinars in the winter because it’s a great time to plan. Not only is it too cold or snowy to garden in many parts of the country, but you can see the structure of your garden—and how to improve it—more clearly after leaves fall and perennials die back.

In addition to two public workshops coming up with Homegrown National Park and Cornell’s Garden for Birds, we’re offering three exclusive workshops for our premium subscribers:

• February 17 - Plan Now for a Small Backyard You’ll Love: Small yard? Big potential. In this hands-on workshop, Zoe and I will show you how to apply our design approach to small spaces (200 to 2,000 SF). We’ll teach you layout strategies to make balconies and urban outdoor spaces feel larger, function better, and support more wildlife: where to put paths, how to create privacy without blocking light, and how to think about structure and habitat in minimal space. You’ll sketch your own plan and walk away knowing exactly what to do next.

• March 24 - Ditch the AI, Grab a Pencil: Real Garden Design Sketching: Tired of those AI garden renders that look completely unhinged? Want to actually see what your design will look like before you dig? In this hands-on workshop, artist and landscape designer Liza Kiesler of Viburnum Gardens will teach you (and Zoe and me) to test your ideas by sketching them onto photographs on your tablet. Sketching will also improve your attention span, ability to stay focused, and your ability to think outside stereotypes (The Cognitive Benefits of Art). No drawing experience necessary!

• April 7 - Here’s Exactly How to Build Your Wildlife Pond: If you’ve always wanted to create a small pond but have been too intimidated to start, this is for you. Wildlife need clean drinking water to survive and many threatened species breed or live in water. Unfortunately, many sources make pond building overly complicated—and less valuable for wildlife. By the time you leave this interview with scientist and author of Building Natural Ponds Robert Pavlis, you’ll be ready to build your wildlife pond—without pumps, filters, or chemicals.

If you can see the links below, we invite you to register for FREE. (If you’re not yet a premium subscriber, you can upgrade now for $30 per year to receive the registration links. Or, complete the Less Lawn More Life challenge from our partners at Wildr and you’ll receive a comped subscription!)

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Open to Everyone

Yardenalities™: A Design Shortcut for a Backyard Makeover

Tuesday, February 3, 12 pm E.T.

In this interactive workshop, Zoe and I will share how hardscape and native plant choices express each of six Yardenalities™—contemporary garden design styles rooted in major landscape traditions. You’ll discover which style resonates with you and learn how to apply it to create a yard that feels cohesive, exciting, and alive. By the end, you’ll have a clear direction—and the confidence to bring it to life.

Register for Yardenalities workshop on February 3 at Homegrown National Park.

Designing Gardens for Birds

Sunday, March 8, 5 pm E.T.

Ready to turn your yard into a bird paradise? Join Zoe and me for a fun, hands-on design session where we’ll sketch, dream, and plan your perfect bird-friendly garden. We’ll walk you through simple design principles to create outdoor “rooms” that feel good for you and look like a 5-star resort to your feathered neighbors—think cozy pathways, inviting destinations, and the perfect woody plants to bring it all together. You’ll walk away with a first-draft layout for your space and clear next steps to continue to garden for birds.

Register for designing gardens for birds workshop on March 8 at Cornell Lab.

Only for Premium Subscribers

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This week, I’m responding to more questions from participants in my daughter Zoe and my Turn that Patch into a Plan workshop. [free video]

Dear Design Your Wild, A room for you in your front yard: I’m having trouble visualizing a destination in the front of my home—it’s a very standard 1960s neighborhood.

So many options! From an understated bench to a fully-furnished patio. Even a basketball hoop in the driveway makes a destination but, as Charlotte garden designer Jay Sifford says in a recent Instagram reel, I’m a big proponent of seating in the front yard.

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From the mid-19th century through the 1930s, sitting in front of one’s home was commonplace. Houses were usually built with front porches where you could relax, cool off, people-watch, and socialize with neighbors. But as cars became commonplace, developers constructed communities without sidewalks and houses without porches. By the time your house was built in the 1960s, front yards were generally designed to be passed by or through, not used. Although New Urbanist developments like the 1980’s Seaside (Remember The Truman Show?) bucked this trend, most new homes are still built without functional front yards.

Fortunately, you don’t need a porch to enjoy seating in your front yard. In fact, “social front yards” became a trend during the pandemic, according to Kevin Lenhart, ​​landscape architect and design director at Yardzen.

“People were getting cabin fever in their houses during quarantine,” Lenhart says, and “this put a lot of pressure on backyards, so naturally, some of it overflowed into the front yard. People were craving interaction and wanted to talk to new people without going to public spaces, and front yards became a safe semi-neutral territory for neighbors to interact.”—Food52 (with Lenhart’s how-to tips)

More recently, the New York Times wrote about how Houston residents are socializing with neighbors in their transformed, street-facing garages and proclaimed “The Garage Is the New Front Porch” [gift link].

But even if you’re not social, go ahead and put a chair or bench in your front yard. Research shows that putting a chair or bench along a path creates a sense of comfort, even if you never use it. And, especially amid today’s rash of incivility, why not signal a friendly willingness to interact, even when you’re not feeling social?

(No, cavemen and dinosaurs never coexisted, but the sense of security you get from enveloping seating in tall greenery is still a good idea.)

Dear Design Your Wild, A good portion of my side yard is a septic leech field. What to do on/around this?

A septic field is a great place for a meadow, because the deeper-rooted grasses and wildflowers improve the soil’s ability to absorb wastewater and filter contaminants. Ideally, run your path around the field, not over it, because foot traffic has the reverse effect—and everyone needs a path circling their house, when at all possible. In fact, now is a good time to seed a meadow with a septic safe mix like this one from Prairie Moon. Do not plant shrubs or trees over the septic field, because their woody roots may damage the lines; woody plants with water-seeking roots (like willows) should be kept far from the drainfield.

Dear Design Your Wild, I have a big stump in this design [from the workshop]. Any tips?

First, go you for keeping the stump! We need more dead wood in our landscapes. My top recommendation for your stump is to treat it as a planter, preferably surrounded by more vegetation. Many stumps have natural depressions you can plant right into, but you can hollow out a large stump to make a deeper planter, if you like. For more on the ecological value of dead wood and how to make it attractive, see Wait! B4 You Cut Down That Tree.

Why, How, Wow!

Why?

First, the bad news: According to the “environmental mismatch hypothesis,” posited in a recent journal article, the environment we’ve created may threaten the viability of our species. Ouch.

A growing body of observational and experimental evidence suggests that industrialisation negatively impacts key biological functions essential for survival and reproduction and, therefore, evolutionary fitness. Specifically, environmental contamination arising directly from industrial activities (e.g. air, noise and light pollution, microplastic accumulation) is linked to impaired reproductive, immune, cognitive and physical function. Chronic activation of the stress response systems, which further impairs these biological functions, also appears more pronounced in industrialised areas.—Biological Reviews

How

The good news: OK, I can’t really address that crushing hypothesis. However, it certainly suggests protecting and engaging with the natural world we evolved for—as you and I are doing—has widespread benefits. That’s true at the macro level, where 190+ countries have committed to conserve at least 30 percent of their terrestrial, inland water, and coastal and marine areas by 2030. (Notably, the United States is not among them.)

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And it’s true on the micro level: There’s scads of hard evidence that each of us can improve our physical and mental health by connecting more with nature, as Dr. Kathy Willis documents in her new book Good Nature: Why Seeing, Smelling, Hearing and Touching Plants Is Good for Our Health. I’ll share more from the book another time, but for now I want to leave you with some simple changes Willis told Joe Gardener she’s making in her life:

1. Extending time in nature, walking or sitting, to 20 minutes or more.

2. Focusing on greenery; flowers are less important.

3. Gardening without gloves.

4. Touching plants.

5. Growing spider plants indoors.

6. Diffusing natural scents inside, too.

7. Making her screensaver a nature scene.

Did any of these surprise you? They surprised me—and I’m making changes. For the evidence behind these recommendations, read Willis’s book or watch the podcast. One example: A spider plant completely transforms the microbiome in a closed room.

Wow!

Seattle-based landscape designer and educator Stacie Crooks transformed a typical post-World War II front yard into a wildlife-friendly garden with seating and mostly native plants.

Using two-thirds evergreen plant material ensures that there will be plenty of interest and garden coverage throughout each season. We carefully chose a plant color palette that complements the house color and intentionally incorporated red and burgundy plants to connect the eye to the red front door.—Fine Gardening

Miscellany

• I’ve started borrowing ebooks for my Kindle, including Willis’, from the library. Ebooks don’t contribute anthropogenic mass and libraries compensate writers especially well for ebooks.

• The Supreme Court has agreed to hear Bayer’s case that federal pesticide labeling protects them against the thousands of cancer claims from Roundup users. Stay tuned. [CNN]

• This year’s winner of the “green Nobel Prize” studies lowly fungi. Learn why in her interview in the New York Times. [gift link]

• You can see my and others’ resolutions in Laura Fenton’s Garden Pros Share the 10 Ways They’re Changing Their Landscapes in 2026

Yes, I’m celebrating YOU, because YOU, my dear subscriber, are an ecological success story. By eschewing pesticides and adopting ecological landscaping principles, you are supporting biodiversity in your yard. And by doing so, you’re also improving your and your family’s health. And you’re inspiring others around you. Go, you!

As you start to think about how you’ll continue to transform your yard in 2026—because yardening is a process, right?—here is recent research to remind you why you’re such a biodiversity superstar:

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Thousands of arthropods

Wherever you left leaves in the fall, thousands of insects will emerge in the spring—about twice as many in number and many more species than if you’d removed those leaves.

In fact, Maryland state entomologist Max Ferlauto and colleagues found that almost twice as many butterfly and moth species emerged from test areas where they left leaves in suburban yards compared to where they removed them.

“In a square meter of yard where you leave your leaves, there’s on average almost 2,000 insects that will emerge over the course of the spring,” [Ferlauto told Margaret Roach of the New York Times].

That total number doesn’t include decomposers and detritivores like earthworms or millipedes, he said, nor the tiny insectlike soil animals called springtails. What it does include are arboreal arthropods—species that spend only a portion of their lives in the fallen leaves and the rest above ground: butterflies and moths (about 20 will emerge), parasitic wasps (about 300), beetles (almost 400), more than 100 spiders and 1,000-plus flies of various kinds. …

“When you remove the leaves, instead of retaining them,” Dr. Ferlauto said, “you reduce the number of moths by 45 percent, the number of spiders by 56 percent on average, the average number of beetles by 24 percent.”

Besides those declines in abundance—the total number of individuals—there was also a reduction in species richness, the diversity within each group. In butterflies and moths, for example, that fell by 44 percent.—The New York Times [gift link]

Small areas, big impact

Think your garden is too small or your neighborhood is too urban to support wildlife? Think again. In the year and a half since ecologists replaced non-native plants with native goldenrod, columbine, aster, and sedge in a tenth-acre plot in the middle of New York City’s Broadway—a busy boulevard in the densest city in the country—citizen scientists have so far documented 127 plant and animal species on iNaturalist.

…which reminds me to make a resolution for 2026:

1. Document my yard’s insect biodiversity. Want to join me? To track plants and animals, including insects, take a picture and ID it with the iNaturalist app, which will identify it and track its geolocation. (Download from Apple or Google.)

Read on for my other resolutions…

“Traditional” gardens can be biodiversity hotspots

If you’re a longtime gardener and love your daffodils and peonies, I celebrate you! And if you’re a newby who yearns to grow roses in honor of your grandfather, go for it!

Biodiversity studies of gardens cultivated for beauty first, like England’s Great Dixter and Pennsylvania’s Chanticleer, have demonstrated the ecological value of their mixes of thousands of exotic and native plant species. Chanticleer’s study documented 1,157 animal species, including an unnamed species of crayfish, a bee species never before found in Pennsylvania, and 23 bird species rated of greatest conservation need in the state. Demonstrating the unique role of gardens compared to wild places, Chanticleer’s 509 moth species include many forest understory specialists that are less common in the wild as a result of invasive plants and deer browse.

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Personally, I have become less doctrinaire since reviewing these results. So here’s my second resolution:

2. Loosen up. Have fun incorporating more plants native elsewhere in the country, as well as non-invasive exotic plants, into my new garden. I will still aim for more than “two thirds for the birds”—i.e., two thirds locally native vegetation to support breeding pairs, per Doug Tallamy—but one third is a lot, and increases as I add more natives. (If you’d like to see if a favorite exotic plant is invasive, check the lists at the Invasive Plant Atlas of the United States.)

The Chanticleer example, as well as research like Maryland’s leave-the-leaves study, underscores the importance of landscaping practices to biodiversity. Here is Chanticleer’s list of what makes a biodiverse garden; you can learn more from their biodiversity study.

1. Grow a diversity of woody plants.

2. Grow a diversity of herbaceous plants.

3. Provide soft-pithed plants for cavity nesters.

4. Provide logs, snags, and sticks.

5. Leave the leaf litter.

6. Limit pesticides.

7. Reduce outdoor lighting.

Differing tastes boost biodiversity

Maybe you’ve stopped irrigating and using pesticides and planted a few native shrubs, but you still love your lawn. I celebrate you! As English garden designer and biodiversity advocate John Little pointed out in a recent Plantastic podcast, taste creates edges and complexity and hence more biodiversity in urban and suburban areas.

So if you’ve got one garden where … a bloke wants to cut the whole thing to lawn—because you usually have a bloke who loves cutting lawn—that’s OK, because next door may well have longer grass or an herbaceous area, and the next garden might have more shrubs. … That is why gardens are so good [for biodiversity], because they are complex, because they are driven by people’s taste.—Plantastic Podcast with Dr. Jared

(If you’d like help making your yard more biodiverse while expressing your personal taste, plan to join my daughter Zoe’s and my “yardenality” workshop on Tuesday, February 3, at 11 am Eastern time, hosted by Homegrown National Park! Registration details to come.)

Resolutions and webinars

OK, I admit, I don’t really make resolutions, but I’m big on planning. I’m constantly thinking ahead and making lists about what I’m going to do in the garden. And the dawn of a new year, when there’s less going on in my yard and the cold keeps me inside (even in north Florida), is my favorite time to plan. So here are the other major changes I’m going to make this year:

3. Build ponds, starting with two in Gainesville. They are so important to biodiversity and they are the “wow” factor in the backyard design Zoe sketched when she visited. I’ve already ordered all the supplies and Pete and I will start digging this month. Stay tuned.

4. Plant a microforest. Zoe’s colleagues at Plan it Wild, leaders in creating microforests, tell me I only need a five-by-eight area. I’m going to lean on them to teach me—and you, too.

5. Learn evidence-based pruning. So far, most everything I can find about pruning is based on tradition, not research. But I’m on the trail of a scientist who has actually done studies…. I want to know: Which pruning actually impacts plant health? And, even if pruning is just about aesthetics, what are the best methods for which plants?

6. Spend smarter. Seed more. Propagate from cuttings. Invest in high impact features (like the ponds). Be patient: Wait to see which of the 40 new plant species in our new Gainesville yard thrive before planting more. And that’s hard for me….

What are YOUR plans for your yard this year? Please tell me in a comment. And also let me know if you’d be interested in a webinar or workshop on any of the topics I’m focusing on. Zoe and I will be soon be announcing our winter webinar series.

Leave a comment

Wishing you health and happiness in 2026,

—Heather

P.S. To see “before” pics and learn more about how Lu La Studio transformed a parking lot into the gorgeous garden above, read Laura Fenton’s Gardenista article.

My daughter Zoe and my latest yard design workshop, hosted by Wild Ones last week, was a wild ride! If you’re not one of the thousands who joined live—yes, it was nerve-wrackingly popular—you can watch the recording here. This week, I’m going to start answering the many questions participants wrote in the chat. But first, a timely question from a longtime subscriber:

Dear Heather, Could you tell us about winter sowing? I bought some wonderful plains oval sedge seeds. Initially I used pots, but the line I am making is so long I’ll go broke. Prairie Moon thought winter sowing would work and now it’s beginning to be winter and I am wondering how to begin. So I bought about 3 oz to give it a try. What can you teach me?—Marsha, Kansas

Is that a trick question, Marsha? I ask because, as an experienced ecological landscaper, you must know that sedges are notoriously difficult to grow from seed. But I’ll roll with it, because growing from seed is by far the most cost effective way to grow native plants—and now is indeed the time to do it.

Please read my comprehensive guide to direct seeding, Have You Ordered Your Seeds Yet? However, I have to warn you that growing from seed is always something of a crap shoot, no matter which method you use. With the pot method you mention, I get tons of seedlings, but then lose most of them either over the summer or after transplanting into the ground in fall. With direct sowing, some species come in too plentifully—I’m talking about you, blue vervain—while others, zilch.

Here’s the super-lazy method I’m personally using this year, just before a rain, when feasible:

• In bare soil: I scratch it up a bit and then cast seeds onto it, at a much higher rate per square foot than recommended. Done.

• In turf or among native plants: I get down on my hands and knees, find a patch of soil between the existing plants, scratch the soil a bit if it’s compacted, press a bunch of seeds into the area (also more than recommended), move to the next area and repeat. Done.

Fingers crossed!

—Heather

P.S. Reader, which native plant species have you grown successfully by direct seeding? Please share species and tips in the comments, below.

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Snappy answers to workshop chat questions

My house is a colonial—thoughts on leaning into the linearity vs. softening when making paths and borders?

Personally, I would lean into the linearity of your colonial home with straight paths, letting your plants do the softening as they explode over the edges in what we call the Blooming Romantic yardenality. But naturalistic paths in the A Walk in the Park yardenality would work well, too. At Mt. Cuba Center in Delaware, the style is linear and symmetric close to the house and more naturalistic further away, a traditional approach captured by the phrase “the garden curtsies to the house.” Learn more in Design Shortcut to a Backyard Makeover: Yardenalities 2.0.

Hard to put a destination in a 20’ x 25’ garden.

Do you think destination means a resort? Any seating area, even a single chair, is a destination. Your garden is the size of a large living room! Even if you plant three sides to soften the edges, as we recommend, you’ll still have enough room for at least two seating areas—for example, a fourtop with chairs in one area and a couple of Adirondack chairs in another. Separate these seating areas with plants, including one or several shrubs or multistem trees. Learn more in How to Make Small Awesome.

Hey, dumb question—if my backyard is only 120 ft deep by 50 ft wide, can I really have small paths? Or maybe just destination areas?

Not dumb, maybe semantics? Perhaps we should be saying “rooms, doorways, and halls” rather than “paths and destinations.” Your 6,000 square foot property is the size of a huge house with many rooms, doorways, and halls. Remember, plants are your walls. Two shrubs or small, multistem trees on either side of an opening makes a doorway. A three-foot strip of lawn between perennial beds is a hallway—and you certainly have room for such a path. Look at the Wild Ones sample garden designs for ideas; they are generally about the size of your yard.

Back of our house we have a steep hill going down to the pool. It is all lawn and people have a hard time walking it. Can’t have any “rooms” there. I don’t know what to do?

Cut stairs into the turf, with railroad tie or cobblestone risers, to give people easy access to the pool below. You can DIY this! To lessen the slope, zigzag the stairway down the hill. Then plant natives into the turf on either side—a perfect place for tall plants, because no one’s walking there anyway. A seating area overlooking the pool on a “landing” halfway down would be nice, but you may need a landscaper to create a terrace ten feet deep or so. In any case, your pool is a fabulous destination.

I have 2 acres with lots of invasive plants. Any tips for removing and cleaning the yard as a do-it-yourselfer?

The counterintuitive, science-backed approach to tackling invasives is to tackle areas with the fewest invasives first, cutting or pulling them until they are under control, then work from pristine to less pristine. This is one of those chores that are worth outsourcing to an ecological landscaping crew, if you can afford it, asking them to teach you to identify the most prevalent ones so you can remove them when they reappear, as they inevitably will. Read The Latest on Weeds. If you have large areas with invasives, also read Solutions for Invasives.

What about deer?

Dear, dear deer! We protect all our young shrubs and trees with temporary fencing, removing it and spraying them with naturally minty Deer Out in summer. For more ideas, read Keep Your Plants Safe 🦌 and Advice About Deer Fences.

How to deter ticks?

Seed an anti-tick border of native mints around your main seating area or pathways. Monardas and mountain mints are some of our most prolific and beautiful native wildflowers, so it’s a win-win. Read about why this works and other research-based tactics in How to Protect Yourself from Lyme Disease If You Love Wildlife.

Wow!

Lisa Doseff, a participant in our workshop last week, recognized her own garden—and granddaughter—in our presentation. Zoe and I adore the image of the joyful girl in a naturalistic play area, don’t you?

It turns out, Lisa wrote an award-winning picture book about creating that garden with her granddaughter, called Grandma Lisa’s Humming, Buzzing, Chirping Garden. A last-minute stocking stuffer for the child in your life?

And, lastly…

• I love to share articles on ecological landscaping on mainstream sites, hoping to encourage the editors to publish more, as well as for your benefit. Unfortunately, mainstream content about native plants often contain misinformation and—especially—misidentified images, as a sharp reader noticed in the article on propagating from cuttings that I shared in the last newsletter. My bad for not catching it!

• ICYMI, a seminal journal article that found glysophate safe has been recalled.

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Good news: You’re both right! It’s a matter of degree. You are correct that the light leaf cover in the foreground of your photo—20 percent or less—will break down and feed the lawn (if they don’t blow off first). D. is correct that the heavier leaf cover toward the trees may damage the turf.

Have you considered planting native flowering shrubs among and in front of the trees? If so, consider leaving a layer of six to eight inches of leaves to kill the turf and prepare for spring planting. You can research shrubs with Native Plant Trust’s Plant Finder. Shrubs will add beauty and a greater sense of enclosure (blocking the view of your fence and the neighbor’s house) while reducing the amount of raking necessary next year. Native plants, unlike turf, benefit from up to six inches of dead leaves, which also provide winter habit for beneficial insects.

I’m curious why you’re removing the pine needles. It’s a myth that they make the soil more acidic (learn why). Pine needles and other evergreen leaves do take longer to break down than deciduous leaves, so thick layers of them deter growth, making them useful for paths and mulch. (Read more on leaving leaves in my article, Mulch Ado About Mulch.)

—Heather

P.S. I appreciate the increasing number of comments on my posts. I love your ideas, feedback, and questions.

Why, How, Wow!

Why?

As you know, I’m a HUGE fan of making a habit of strolling around the yard daily—or, if you work at home, as I do—multiple times each day. We’re all less likely to go outside when it’s cold and the flora and wildlife are less interesting, but recent research found people benefit from walking in nature even when they don’t enjoy it. So, just do it!

In our studies, people who took 50-minute walks in nature showed about a 20 percent improvement in working memory compared to walks in busy urban areas. Even viewing photos or listening to nature sounds for 10 minutes helps, though not as much as the real thing.

Interestingly, enjoyment isn’t required. People who walked in a cold Michigan winter, and didn’t like it at all, still showed the same cognitive boost as those who walked on a warm summer day.—Marc Berman (author, Nature and the Mind) in Psychology Today

To continue to engage with nature—and reap the cognitive benefits—in winter when there’s less going on, double down on mindfulness exercises during your daily strolls. For example, learn to ID trees from their bark. (Here’s an eight-minute video introduction to bark identification. Who knew?!)

How

Here are more thoughts on staying engaged with your garden through the winter:

1. Relax. Enjoy the downtime. In general, ignore old agricultural adages like “They won’t thrive if you don’t strive,” as well as contemporary articles like “How to Winterize Coneflowers in 5 Simple Steps.” Nature doesn’t winterize coneflowers and neither should you. It’s not that complicated.

2. Direct sow seeds if you must do something. For how, see Have You Ordered Your Seeds Yet? You can also propagate native shrubs from cuttings (here’s how); if you’re experiment fails, you’ve only lost a few twigs. Seed inspiration: the plants Piet Oudolf used in the Nantucket garden below; rare seed sources for California and the Mountain West; for pastures, native forage mix like this one from Roundstone.

   

3. Plan (aka, dream). Planning is fun and reassuring for some, anxiety-producing for others. Whatever your response to planning, I recommend you devote 90 minutes next week to my daughter Zoe and my free workshop for Wild Ones on creating a master layout (register here). If you start now, you’ll have plenty of time to dream about your overall layout, identify what you’ll tackle next year, and complete your plant research in time for spring. That’s what our former student Rosa did and she’s loving her yard a year later:

My garden exploded this year! I’ve added a few fern varieties in my backyard, a pawpaw tree, a second spicebush, and recently installed a hammock (bliss!). I am in awe of the amount of bees and other insects that are enjoying my plantings. I call it Bee TV! I’ve had a few great conversations with neighbors about it and I’ve inspired some to plant more natives!—Rosa, Greenwich, CT

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4. Improve your seating. Adding seating instantly adds a sense of comfort and a place to go in your yard, among the very top attributes of a restorative landscape. If you have carpentry skills, consider making Adirondack chairs (plan) or Dan Benarcik’s modernist version. If you’re a sewer, you can make throw pillows for your seating. I recently bought a fabulous outdoor fabric from Quadrille’s discount outlet (25 percent off with code CYBER-25). I also like the prints from the Blockshop x Sunbrella collab. In Veranda’s new book, garden designer Scott Shrader of Los Angeles says,

It’s my job to get people out into the garden and keep them there. … I am always looking for a new arrangement to engage people and give them something to do, even if it’s simply spending time together.—Veranda Enchanting Gardens: Inspired Landscape Design

5. Learn something new. Check out webinars from your local native plant society or botanical garden (find both here). If you haven’t already, get ready for spring by completing the 12-week Less Lawn More Life challenge, which you can now begin at any time. Even experienced ecological landscapers like Rosa find it helpful.

I’ve been following the Less Lawn More Life updates all summer, super cool work!—Rosa, Greenwich, CT

Wow!

My friend—and designer extraordinaire—Jonathan Hansen took seriously Zoe and my advice to create destinations to draw him and his family and friends into their woods. He designed and built an awesome bridge across a creek from trees felled on his property. As he wrote on Instagram,

Some projects take a year of planning, a few weeks of felling trees, and a lifetime of dreaming.—Jonathan Hansen

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Miscellany

Looking for gifts for fellow nature lovers? Check out Laura Fenton’s lists of recent books about low impact gardening and stocking stuffer guide for gardeners. (To anyone in my family who has read this far: I’d love the tool cleaner—and a sharpening stone to go with it:)

Dear Yardener,

Can you guess my first purchase for the yard at our new Gainesville house?

Right! I imagine the photograph gave her away: A statue — a vintage, three-quarter size woman, with nude torso and severed head. I am not a big fan of yard art, so why?

I was scouring LiveAuctioneers.com for vintage and antique furniture for the house’s Bloomsbury-inspired interior when I found her and realized the classical pose would extend the decorative motif into the garden while the white marble would brighten a dismal corner of the yard seen from our bedroom and office/guest room. And views from inside are SO important! (See “Why?” below.) Plus, siting a sensuous statue where it is visible only to us and our house guests seemed mildly naughty.

Now, months later, I just placed my first major plant order and views from the inside remain my priority.

That’s not to say I haven’t thought through the overall layout. (Perish the thought!) My daughter and teaching partner Zoe visited last week, walked the 13,000 square foot property with me several times, and sketched a rough plan — the sort you’ll make if you join our free workshop on December 5. Then we assessed the views, not standing at windows, but as we experienced them in the course of our days — walking through rooms, sitting in our favorite chairs, and so on.

For example: “Mom, I’ve noticed we both sit sideways in these club chairs,” said Zoe, doing just that. “And from here I’m looking toward the mailbox. I think you need a tree in between, on this side of the driveway.” So we tested out and then marked with flags a place for a spring-flowering tree with a “pupation station” underneath.

Meanwhile, leaning into the mysteriousness of the nude woman in our backyard, I placed her detached head on a copper plinth in the entry, as you see above.

— Heather

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Dear Heather, How do I stop voles from killing my shrubs? I’ve lost two red twig dogwoods, a hydrangea and a rhodo and numerous small plants. I tried letting nature balance itself: stopped trapping, made some stick hideaways away from the house, got an owl box, etc. They are just as destructive this year. I will not use poison, I stamp the trails like a crazy person and put down nasty smelling stuff and have planted 70 alliums. Voles continue to proliferate. Ideas Please?! — Joan, Lake George, NY

You have stumped me! You’ve done everything I know. (We have voles but they have not been much of a problem.) My suggestion is that you continue to aim for natural balance as you’ve been doing, starting with moving or changing out your owl boxes, following the instructions from Cornell Lab of Ornithology in Right Bird, Right House. Make sure you’re attempting to attract raptors that thrive in your region and habitat with the right box in the right place. People often hang owl boxes too low, for example.

While you wait for raptors to control your vole population, you can cage young shrubs and trees in hardware cloth:

Use exclusion barriers to keep voles out by placing ¼ inch mesh hardware cloth cylinders large enough to accommodate 5 years growth around the base of young trees. Bury the mesh 3 inches below ground level [some sites say 6] to prevent voles from burrowing underneath. Make cylinders higher than the typical snow-line level and pinch closed at top to avoid trapping birds. — Cornell Cooperative Extension, Putnam County

Finally, Fred Breglia, arborist and executive director of the Landis Arboretum near you, suggested mouse traps:

My best advice for voles is to use mouse traps baited with peanut butter. I recommend putting the traps inside sections of PVC pipe with a large enough diameter for the traps to snap.

This lethal solution goes against the Zen, learn-to-be-thankful solutions I strive to apply and recommend (see Why Managing Gophers Wisely Matters), but I believe killing wildlife can be necessary, for example to safeguard ecosystems from deer overpopulation. Mouse traps are certainly a much better solution than rodenticides, which harm owls and other natural vole predators.

Vole populations tend to ebb and flow, so here’s wishing you an ebbing vole population!

— Heather

Why, How, Wow!

Why? Viewing nature through a window improves human health.

Even if you spend a lot of time outside, as I hope you do, you will probably see your yard most often from your windows and as you move between your car (or the sidewalk) and your door. So improving the view of your yard from inside can significantly increase your connection to nature. A recent meta-analysis confirms you can experience the health benefits of nature by viewing it through windows. In addition, an attractive view will draw you out into your yard to experience nature directly.

This meta-analysis synthesizes findings from 28 studies encompassing 104 results to examine the relationship between window views of nature and human health. Improvements were reported across various physiological, psychological, and physical health measures, with most studies focused on psychological outcomes. The meta-analytic results indicate consistently positive effects, with particularly strong benefits in studies using physiological health measures and focusing on nature in urban settings. Although some publication bias was detected, correcting for it did not change the overall conclusions. — Bioscience

How: Simple steps to bring nature inside

Putting views first means seeing your garden from inside, not from the street. I encourage you to spend time this week noticing your views. To give you some ideas, here’s what I’m doing in Gainesville. Note that all the new plants will support wildlife — and add movement — by attracting birds, butterflies, and/or bees.

• Removing foundation plantings and invasives. Rangy, exotic foundation plantings reach the tops of the north-facing living and bed room windows. And the gorgeous Chinese tallow seen from my seat in the dining room is designated a Category 1 invasive in Florida — one of only 18 in this invasive hotspot. I’ve hired a team from Bee Good Landscape to remove unwanted exotics and all invasives throughout the property, before I start planting. By hiring pros and working alongside them, I hope to learn the local invasives so I can cut them as they reappear (and avoid removing rare natives, as I’ve done in the past).

• Siting small decorative trees 15 to 30 feet in front of windows as focal points. I’m replacing the tallow with white fringe tree. In the front yard where they’ll be seen from the living and bed rooms, I’m planting another fringe tree and two flatwoods plums. Their white flowers in spring and yellow leaves in fall will brighten the dappled shade of huge live oaks, while supplying pollinators with early nectar and songbirds with fruit.

• Installing trellises and vines on either side of one dining room window. I hope we’ll see hummingbirds sipping from coral honeysuckle as we eat breakfast. (In Rhode Island, we draw birds into the view with perennials that reach just above sill level and a highbush blueberry along the side of a window.)

• Softening a fence with tall shrubs. The other dining room window looks onto a fence, so I’m screening it with three white-flowering Walter’s viburnums on one side of a gate and a Henry’s garnet Virginia sweetspire in the shade on the other side.

• Arranging outdoor furniture to look inviting from indoors. Because seating is so important to a sense of comfort in a landscape, I bought wonderful used, bright white Brown Jordan aluminum sets on Facebook Marketplace before I bought any plants. (Read my article on The Dirty Downside of Outdoor Furniture.)

• Placing features as focal points. The marble woman will sit in front of evergreen Southern magnolias (transplanted from closer to the house) among wild coffee shrubs and Southern shield ferns. Two cast-stone whippets, also bought at auction, now sit on either side of the path that leads from the kitchen door through the patio into the backyard. (A grassy path between taller plants can similarly make a view.)

Wow! Limits drive creativity in plant selection (and everything else).

I love to create challenges for myself, and one of them is not to plant anything in the new garden that I’m growing elsewhere. Another is inventing a new color palette — in this case, white, pink, coral, orange-red, and blue, a palette that will continue inside. There will be no yellow and little purple, the two most common native plant colors. Of course, limiting myself to mostly pure-species native plants is a major constraint, as well. (Note: Fortunately, our lot already has dozens of native trees, many of them keystones — live oaks, Florida maples, Carolina cherry laurels, hackberry, Southern magnolia, winged sumac, American holly, and yaupon holly.)

Zoe and my husband and gardening partner Pete give me a hard time about all these arbitrary rules, but as Orson Welles said,

The enemy of art is the absence of limitations. — Orson Welles

The upshot of planting only species I have no experience with — crazy right? — is that I’m doing lots of plant research, visiting wild areas, poring over books, scrutinizing native nurseries online and IRL, and searching national (wildlflower.org/plants) and state (fnps.org/plants) databases. I started my plant spreadsheet several months ago (see it here), but only started ordering once I had a plan. When I plant again next fall, I’ll double down on the ones that perform well.

Below are pictures of the plants we’ll be installing soon to improve the entry area and the views. All tolerate part to mostly shade and are native to the south, some to the entire eastern U.S. For your reference, I’ve put links to species information, including native range. If you have experience with these plants, please do tell!

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Miscellany

• Did you know that only one percent of the earth has been developed into suburbs and cities and a whopping 40 percent is now devoted to agriculture?!? I did not, until I heard Michael Grunwald speak about his new book, We Are Eating the Earth. I am questioning all my beliefs about agricultural policy and look forward to reading it to become informed.

• Rusty pruning shears? Here’s a step-by-step guide to clean and sharpen pruners.

When I saw my “upcoming topics” document had reached 26 single-spaced pages, I imagined this column as a breezy zip through months of collected links and images. Sadly, reorganizing the collected miscellany into my “Why, How, Wow!” format revealed some grim “Why?” stats unanswerable with ecological landscaping “Hows.” But the information is important, so I hope you’ll stick with me — and even click some of the links to learn more — until you reach the gorgeous before-and-after images in “Wow!”

— Heather

P.S. Please use the buttons at the bottom to like and comment. Your feedback fuels my work! And ask your ecological garden design questions to give me something cheerier to write about:)

Why, How, Wow!

Why? Studies demonstrate benefit of nature to humans while nature connectedness — and nature itself — declines

In wildness is the preservation of the world. — Henry David Thoreau, 1851

A Washington Post article on forest bathing presents some of the evidence-based benefits of being in nature:

[Dr. Susan Abookire, an internist and professor at Harvard Medical School] explained that just by standing among the trees, we were inhaling essential tree oils called phytoncides and aromatic plant compounds called terpenes. “There’s several studies now showing that inhaling phytoncides boosts our immune system, and specifically our natural killer-cell numbers and activities go up,” she said. “And there are a lot of studies going on — NIH, others, many in vitro and some in vivo — showing how terpenes are cytotoxic and anti-tumorigenic, they’re neuroprotective, etcetera.”

In a 90-minute webinar for health care professionals called “Nature as Medicine,” Abookire cites study after study showing the benefits: lower blood pressure and anxiety; reduced stress-hormone levels; improved memory, attention, mood and sleep; faster recovery from surgery and illness; healthier gut microbiomes and more. — Washington Post

Unfortunately, fewer and fewer people are receiving these benefits. A recent English study found people’s connection to nature has declined by more than 60 percent since 1800.

Computer modelling predicts that levels of nature connectedness will continue to decline unless there are far-reaching policy and societal changes — with introducing children to nature at a young age and radically greening urban environments the most effective interventions.

The study by Miles Richardson, a professor of nature connectedness at the University of Derby, accurately tracks the loss of nature from people’s lives over 220 years by using data on urbanisation, the loss of wildlife in neighbourhoods and, crucially, parents no longer passing on engagement with nature to their children. — The Guardian

Meanwhile, widespread agricultural and landscape maintenance practices continue to harm both people and wildlife. Studies of people living near golf courses, for example, demonstrated a relationship between those landscapes and Parkinson’s disease.

Dorsey and his colleagues found in a study this year that people living within a mile of a golf course were more than twice as likely to be diagnosed with Parkinson’s compared with those living six or more miles away. And residents of a public water district with one or more golf courses had almost double the odds of developing Parkinson’s compared with those without a course. Another study, from 2009, showed that consuming water from private wells located in areas with documented historical pesticide use resulted in an approximately 70 to 90 percent increase in the relative risk of Parkinson’s. — The Washington Post

And deeply frightening is the rise in cancer rates — especially blood-related cancers like leukemia — among young people in Iowa and other midwestern agricultural states, as reported this month by The Washington Post.

Glyphosate is a likely cause. Despite having been removed from consumer formulations, glyphosate is still the most-used herbicide worldwide, broadly used by farmers and landscape professionals. (To find the level of glyphosate use near you, use this interactive map of glyphosate use by county.)

Weedkillers containing [glyphosate] are used on nearly half of all planted acres of corn and soybeans in the U.S., though much of those are not grown for human consumption. They’re also used on acres of farmland where wheat, oats, fruits and cotton are grown. Pesticide residue testing from the FDA found glyphosate residues on a wide variety of crops, including oats, soybeans, cranberries, grapes, raisins, oranges, apples, cherries and beans. — NBC News

While the cancer rates don’t prove causality, research published this June in Environmental Health proved a relationship between “acceptable” doses of glyphosate and cancer (notably leukemia) in rats.

A two year carcinogenicity study in rats reports increased benign and malignant tumor rates after continuous exposure to glyphosate or glyphosate-based herbicides … The exposure levels studied in this research are considered low or acceptable — Earth.com

Scientists continue to document alarming declines in butterflies, the most commonly counted insect and a bellwether for other species. For example, a paper published in March 2025 in Science, documented a 22% national butterfly decline across the United States from 2000 to 2020. The same scientists documented an even greater decline in the Midwest — no surprise given the use of pesticides, as well as herbicides, in agricultural states.

In the new study, researchers combined more than 4.3 million observations of 136 butterfly species over the past 32 years to characterize changes in butterfly biodiversity across the midwestern United States.

The authors report that 59 of the 136 species declined in abundance over the study period. And for every 10 species and 100 individuals present in a county in 1992, there are now only nine species and 60 individuals. — USA Today

In some regions of the U.S., as much as 90 percent of the monarch butterfly population has been wiped out in recent decades, and evidence has pointed to pesticides, climate crisis and habitat loss as the drivers. But it has been difficult for scientists to show a direct cause and effect link between pesticides and monarch die-off, which is why another recent study is so important.

A 2024 mass monarch butterfly die-off in California was probably caused by pesticide exposure, new peer-reviewed research finds, adding difficult-to-obtain evidence to the theory that pesticides are partly behind dramatic declines in monarchs’ numbers in recent decades.

Researchers discovered hundreds of butterflies that had died or were dying in January 2024 near an overwintering site, where insects spend winter months. The butterflies were found twitching or dead in piles, which are common signs of neurotoxic pesticide poisoning, researchers wrote.

Testing of 10 of the insects revealed an average of seven pesticides in each, and at levels that researchers suspect were lethal. Proving that pesticides kill butterflies in the wild is a challenge because it is difficult to find and test them soon after they die. Though the sample size is limited, the authors wrote, the findings provide “meaningful insight” into the die-off and broader population decline. — The Guardian

Insects decline isn’t limited to areas with high pesticide use, however. Researchers found an alarming rate of insect decline even in untouched wilderness, which they attributed to warming summer temperatures.

Keith Sockman, associate professor of biology at UNC-Chapel Hill, quantified the abundance of flying insects during 15 seasons between 2004 and 2024 on a subalpine meadow in Colorado, a site with 38 years of weather data and minimal direct human impact. He discovered an average annual decline of 6.6% in insect abundance, amounting to a 72.4% drop over the 20-year period. The study also found that this steep decline is associated with rising summer temperatures. — Phys.org

Compounding pesticide use and climate change, Americans continue to plant invasives that crowd out native vegetation, reducing insect habitat — usually out of ignorance and misplaced trust in retail nurseries.

In 2021, Dr. Beaury [assistant curator at the New York Botanical Garden’s Center for Conservation and Restoration Ecology] published research estimating that 61 percent of the 1,285 plant species identified as invasive in the United States were still available through the nursery trade. That group included 20 that were illegal to grow or sell nationally, and “species that were introduced and recognized as invasive decades ago,” she said in a recent conversation. — The New York Times

You might expect the decrease in biodiversity to reverse as human populations start to decline, as projected in 85 countries by 2050, mostly in Europe. This has not been the case in Japan, which in 2010 became the first country to begin depopulating, according to a recent large-scale study published in Nature Sustainability.

[In rural areas,] humans are agents of ecosystem sustainability. Traditional farming and seasonal livelihood practices, such as flooding, planting and harvesting of rice fields, orchard and coppice management, and property upkeep, are important for maintaining biodiversity. So depopulation can be destructive to nature. Some species thrive, but these are often non-native ones that present other challenges, such as the drying and choking of formerly wet rice paddy fields by invasive grasses.

[Despite depopulation,] in 2024, more than 790,000 [housing units] were built, due partly to Japan’s changing population distribution and household composition. Alongside these come roads, shopping malls, sports facilities, car parks and Japan’s ubiquitous convenience stores. All in all, wildlife has less space and fewer niches to inhabit, despite there being fewer people. — The Conversation

So far, the documented loss of nature and nature connection have not broadly roused Americans to action — or at least, to putting their money toward change. Environmental and animal causes rank last out of nine giving categories. Americans contribute seven times as much to religious causes as to environmental ones.

How: Planetary health is public health

I can be Pollyana-ish about the benefits of managing our home landscapes for biodiversity. And I believe doing so encourages many others to follow suit. That’s why I write this newsletter. However, I can’t imagine our individual actions will be enough to reverse the broad national — and global — trends above. You may want to join me in also taking the following actions:

Supporting — i.e., donating to or voting for — “nature based solutions” to community problems, from infrastructure to public health to global warming. That might look like protecting a watershed, as New York City did in the 1990s, by investing $1.5 billion over 10 years in preserving its forested watershed and restoring critical habitats to protect its water at the source, rather than investing $8 to 10 billion in a new treatment plant. Or it might mean planting street trees to reduce cardiovascular risk in urban areas, as Green Heart Project, The Nature Conservancy, and NIH did in Louisville, Kentucky.

After planting more than 8,000 trees and shrubs in low-income neighborhoods with high pollution exposure, they found residents’ high-sensitivity C-reactive protein (hsCRP) levels — a key inflammation marker — were lower by 13-20%. These reduced levels correspond to a nearly 10-15% reduction in the risk of heart attacks, strokes, or cancer. — Forbes (read for more examples)

Donating to fund research by organizations like the Xerces Society (insects) or Cornell Lab of Ornithology or conservation of wild areas by local land trusts. (Find a local land trust at the Land Trust Alliance.)

Volunteering for grass roots organizations like Wild Ones or Pollinator Pathway, which are mobilizing communities to plant native and to change local policies to prohibit the use of pesticides and other chemicals. (You’ll benefit, too: Recent happiness research shows almost anything is better with friends. I was thrilled to meet so many like-minded neighbors when 30 people showed up for a September meeting to launch a Pollinator Pathway chapter in my Rhode Island town.)

Or simply joining the mailing list and responding to calls for action from advocacy organizations like the Sierra Club. The Florida Springs Council, for example, effectively mobilizes citizens to counteract corporate influence on state legislators. Calling the governor or sending an email to your legislator — alongside thousands of other concerned citizens — makes a difference.

Sharing information with your neighbors and HOA about the benefits of your local native plants, including lower water bills, fewer pesticides, and vibrant wildlife. If you’re in an HOA — as 70% of new homes are — consider serving on your HOA board to be an insider voice for biodiversity (see Homegrown National Park’s HOA Action Plan).

And keep on gardening on! First, it’ll keep you healthy, mentally and physically, which will help protect you from the barrage of discouraging news. Not sure how? Read Why Gardening Is So Good for You in the New York Times (gift link).

And individual conservation efforts DO make a difference. Just leaving the leaves protects thousands of insects — in each square yard.

“We actually have a lot more things emerging than I think many homeowners think we do,” [state entomologist for the Maryland Natural Heritage Program] Dr. Ferlauto said. “In a square meter of yard where you leave your leaves, there’s on average almost 2,000 insects that will emerge over the course of the spring.” — The New York Times

And planting butterfly host plants can turn around declines in individual butterfly species, as demonstrated most recently by the comeback of the Karner blue butterfly in Michigan. I’m trying to plant as many hosts as possible for this bellwether insect in my new Gainesville garden and you can, too. Use the National Wildlife Federation plant finder to identify local keystone species or this list from Prairie Nursery to find hosts of especially showy butterflies.

Finally, live near a golf course? See 4 surprising things that may reduce your risk of Parkinson’s (Washington Post gift link).

Wow!

In Veranda’s new book, Los Angeles landscape designer Scott Shrader says,

It’s my job to get people out into the garden and keep them there. … I am always looking for a new arrangement to engage people and give them something to do, even if it’s simply spending time together. — Veranda Enchanting Gardens

The following before-and-after images illustrate different ways designers draw people out into their yards to enjoy healthful human-nature connection. (If you’re ready to transform your own yard, register for my daughter Zoe and my free virtual workshop, Turn that Patch into a Plan, on December 9 at 6 pm E.T., presented by Wild Ones.)

Opening up the view in San Francisco

Believe it or not, this total transformation of the back of a San Francisco Victorian is DIY — though by an architect, Kevin Short of Tiny Monster Design, and his designer wife Katie Heller. It’s a dramatic illustration of the impact of improving the view.

Lawn to Londerful (Anyone get the Slow Horses reference?)

This is a good example of how adding plants expands, rather than decreases, the sense of space in a narrow urban yard. Open, multi-stemmed trees break the length into rooms, while vines and other greenery along the fences “blur the edges.” The lounging and dining areas and a new path to the shed-office create destinations, so the owners spend time — and entertain others — in the once bare yard. This five-week transformation cost roughly $36,000, including $12,000 for paving and $11,000 for plants.

Sharp design enhances nature in New Jersey

This “before” has a homey, naturalistic feel, but the stepping stones aren’t functional. In the “after,” the steps, which complement the modern house stylistically, draw you through the more densely planted landscape — and down to a lake below. Landscape designer Ronni Hock says,

The husband is a very busy surgeon and wanted to be able to come home, walk around to different areas outside and have places for the family to sit and enjoy the setting. — Houzz

Don’t we all?

From bare to beautiful New York City balcony

Dirt Queen NYC made this balcony welcoming to both humans and pollinators. Notice how the small trees along the left create a sense of security, while the TV — a client request — makes the seating area a destination. (See additional images at Gardenista.) Read my article about how to make small awesome.

Made in the shade in LA

Yes, the pool ($$$) makes a big difference in this transformation by Lauren Caris Cohan and her partner in life and business, Matt Jacoby. But I’d argue the furniture and additional planting — lots and lots of lush plants in what was already a wooded hillside — MAKE this backyard. Don’t you want to hang out there?

Wildr Update

In the latest episode of Walk on the Wild Side from the Less Lawn More Life team, Filippine Hoogland talks about another way we can contribute to arresting the decline of nature (and health): by becoming citizen scientists. Simply identify plants, insects, and other animals with the iNaturalist. (Who knows, if you’re looking for love, you may even find it there; read about how this couple met over their shared passion for plant parasites.)

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Dear Yardener,

At dinner at the home of friends recently, our host expressed frustration with how inconsistently two identical native plants behaved in his yard: one thrived and the other languished under apparently identical conditions. I suggested the conditions may actually differ, like a soil pathogen in one place or varying drainage conditions. Or — as often happens — the languishing plant just took transplanting hard. It happens (frequently).

Then I gave it to him straight. “You can’t worry about each and every plant. To transform your yard, you need thousands of plants.”

He was stunned. It may sound as if I was exaggerating, but the rule of thumb is one perennial or grass per square foot. That means replacing half the turf on an average lot — about 13,000 square feet, less house, driveway, etc. — requires perhaps 4,000 plants.

To soften the blow, I explained he and his wife can spread the work and expense over years. And they can propagate their own plants from seed, division, or cuttings. And they can get seeds or plants from friends. But in the meantime, the least expensive way to establish a native perennial garden is by seeding in the fall. In fact, many plants that evolved in northern climates require a period of cold to germinate and the easiest method of such cold stratification is the put them outdoors — now.

When I emailed my friends to thank them for dinner, I sent the following answer from last October about seeding a meadow, which I’ve updated for you. Once you adopt an experimental attitude toward growing, you’ll soon have thousands of plants.

Wishing you successful seeding,

— Heather

The wisdom of starting a meadow from seed

Dear Heather, Can you talk about the wisdom (or foolishness) of starting a meadow from seed? — A., New Jersey

Wise! The cost of seeding a meadow is orders of magnitude less than planting plugs or plants, but it requires more patience. A meadow takes several years to mature; plugs give you a six to 12 month head start and plants give you a 12 to 24 months (or more) head start. Keep in mind that it’s not an either/or — you can seed now and then plant plugs and even plants into your meadow next summer.

Late fall or early winter is the best time to seed a meadow, which means starting your prep and ordering seeds now. Here are some tips:

1. Pick an area that gets at least six hours of sun a day. Woodland plants are slower growing and often harder to grow from seed than sun-loving meadow (also called prairie) plants; if you want to try growing woodland plants from seed, try the Wild Seed Project's method, which I describe in Save Money with Winter Sowing.

2. Prepare the ground (see “How” below) and know the limitations of whatever method you choose.

3. Pick a cover crop to protect the soil, minimize weeds, and protect delicate emerging seedlings. Your cover crop can be a fast-growing native grass like Canada wild rye or Virginia wild rye, a sterile exotic hybrid like Regreen, or fast-growing annual or biennial wildflowers. In my daughter Zoe’s meadow, black-eyed Susans acted as a cover crop, providing dense vegetation that discouraged weeds. When you seed or plant into existing turf, the turfgrass acts as a cover crop.

4. Consider supplementing an all-native meadow mix with some of the native species listed below that grow easily from direct sowing and create drifts of individual species à la Piet Oudolf. Alternatively, direct sow specific species to create a more traditional perennial garden like K. from Minnesota's, above.

5. Use several times the recommended amount of seed. Supplier recommendations are based on traditionally prepared soil — i.e., tilled multiple times to remove all existing vegetation and expose, germinate, and kill the existing seed bank. With other methods, fewer of the seeds you sow will germinate, so we have found that direct sowing several times as much seed as recommended works better.

6. Rake the soil lightly to ensure soil-to-seed contact.

7. Mix the seed with a lot of sand — four gallons of slightly moist, clean sand (e.g., sandbox sand from the hardware store) with each 1,000 square feet of seed — and broadcast freehand a section at a time.

8. Cover seeds with a light layer of straw (not hay) to keep them in place and safe from birds and add some organic matter.

9. In the first year, mow the meadow to four to six inches every six weeks or so from spring through fall to stop turf grass and annual weeds from going to seed.

I compared notes with Jesse at Prairie Moon Nursery and we came up with this list of meadow species that are especially easy to grow from direct sowing:

• Wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa)

• Spotted beebalm (Monarda punctata) — Great as a big patch, flowers first year

• Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

• Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) — Reseeding biennial — and brown-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia triloba)

• Blue vervain (Verbena hastata) — Work better sprinkled throughout than grouped together

• Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)

• Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) — Great as a big patch, flowers second year

• Partridge pea (Chamaecrista fasciculata) — Reseeding annual (scarify by pouring boiling water on seeds and allowing them to cool to before sowing)

• Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) — Grass

• Purple lovegrass (Eragrostis pectinacea) — Grass

Happy planting!

— Heather

Why, How, Wow!

Why?

Reading my favorite column one week, I was reminded of the scene in Arlo Guthrie’s epic Vietnam War protest song Alice’s Restaurant when he was sent to a draft board psychiatrist:

And I went up there, I said, "Shrink, I want to kill. I mean, I wanna, I wanna kill. Kill. I wanna, I wanna see, I wanna see blood and gore and guts and veins in my teeth. Eat dead burnt bodies. I mean kill, Kill, KILL, KILL." And I started jumpin up and down yelling, "KILL, KILL, " and he started jumpin up and down with me and we was both jumping up and down yelling, "KILL, KILL." And the sergeant came over, pinned a medal on me, sent me down the hall, said, "You're our boy." — Alice’s Restaurant​

Americans apparently still want to kill — though mostly insects, based on the Washington Post Department of Data’s analysis of Google searches for “how to kill…”

The ongoing insect apocalypse does not seem to have registered with homeowners. Insects — and insectlike entities, since Google searchers aren’t always clear on their taxonomy — are one of the few things Americans want to kill even more than time.
​
By our count, bugs make up more than half of the top 100 entities we’re trying to kill. The rankings aren’t precise, as folks sometimes split their vote between multiple phrases, such as “how to kill centipede,” “how to kill a centipede” and “how to kill centipedes.” But for the most part, we were struck by how consistently Americans described their targets. — Washington Post​

Hopefully, dear readers, you now second-guess your own impulses to kill insects. I’ve certainly written extensively, perhaps even mind-numbingly frequently, about the danger of the insect apocalypse to all life on earth. Scary.

But also, like Guthrie’s song, humorous — at least as Department of Data’s Andrew Van Dam reports it. To read his analysis and see some awesome data visualizations about what Americans want to kill and how that differs by state, check out this gift link to Here’s what Americans want to kill, according to Google.​

How

Some potentially good news in the Post’s story is that the plant Americans want to kill the most is grass. That’s often the first step in replacing lawn with native plants to help avert the insect apocalypse. If you’re ready to replace some of your lawn with meadow, direct-sowing native grasses and wildflowers in late fall or early winter is an inexpensive and relatively easy way.

Unfortunately, there’s no silver bullet when it comes to killing grass. Although many ecological landscapers use glyphosate (until recently, the primary ingredient in RoundUp), we discourage it; among many reasons, kidney-disease causing glyphosate compounds persist seven years in groundwater and 22 years in soil.

Here are the pros and cons of my personal favorite methods of preparing turf lawns for direct sowing:

• Remove turf with a sod remover or, for small areas, a maddock

  • Best for: Yards with monoculture turf

  • Pros: Fast, neat edges

  • Cons: Disturbs seed bank, can damage tree roots (and cause suckering)

• Solarize turf under clear plastic for six weeks while weather is warm or, if you have time, four weeks on, two weeks off, then four weeks on

  • Best for: Small- to medium-sized areas

  • Pros: Does not disturb seed bank, solarized grass acts as mulch

  • Cons: Plastic waste (and possibly microplastics), kills beneficial soil microbes

• Mowing closely, then dethatching

  • Best for: Large areas

  • Pros: Easy, fast, turf acts as cover crop

  • Cons: Turf and any invasives in it persist until outcompeted by natives, can look messy

Whichever method you use, expect your meadow to evolve over several years, as explained in the chart below from Ben Vogt of Monarch Gardens.​

Wow!

Here’s a picture of Zoe’s yard in its second season year. The meadow at right was solarized the previous summer and heavily seeded in the fall with a meadow mix and several additional species. As you can see, she used so much black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) seed that this biennial is acting as a glorious cover crop. Although it reseeds, the black-eyed Susans will eventually die out as they are replaced by longer-lasting perennials that establish more slowly. On the left around the circular lawn is a anti-tick border of native mints planted as plugs the previous summer.

Wildr Update

On the topic of plants languishing, I loved this Instagram clip of garden-designer-to-the-stars Edwina von Gal saying, “I bet you cannot guess how many plans I have killed!” It’s in the trailer for Walk on the Wild Side, a mini-series from the Less Lawn, More Life team (including my daughter Zoe).

If you haven’t already, take the Wildr quiz (go-wildr.com) and get on the list to receive episodes as they are released over the next several weeks.

Dear Heather, I saw your video as part of the Less Lawn More Life series, and I learned SO much in such a short time that I am suddenly a passionate fan. I have an acre on the Magothy River with multiple climate zones, from marsh to dry meadow to woodland. I’ve focused on growing the meadow for five years now, and it’s a mass of diverse plants, including multiple goldenrod species, milkweeds, opuntia, agastache, asters, grasses, etc. I’ve even started a neighborhood group to encourage people around here to introduce native species. Next, I plan to move a lot of tall things further away from the house and short things closer to create a greater sense of movement. My questions for you: How to delineate zones of the yard where we want a continuous view toward the water, rather than feeling of enclosure? — Barry, Maryland

Thank you — and congratulations on transforming so much of your own property — and for inspiring others through your neighborhood group! Also, totally love your plan to move tall plants away from the house, opening up the views from the house while giving your yard a greater sense of enclosure. As for creating zones — or rooms or destinations — without blocking the view, here are three ideas:

1. Mow destinations into your meadow. People sitting in an area up to twelve feet in diameter will feel enclosed by a four-foot meadow, according to the Law of Significant Enclosure. (This “law” is supposedly based on behavioral studies, but I was unable to find them.)

The law of significant enclosure says that we feel enclosed when the vertical edge of a space is at least one-third the length of the horizontal space we’re inhabiting. — Garden Design

2. Interrupt the view with semi-transparent focal points. These might be a prominent seating area, a low hedge, or a split rail fence that divert the path from the house to the water. Or a small tree that diverts the eye as you walk to the water. The point is to extend the anticipation and enjoyment of the view by distracting attention from it at various points.

3. Frame the view. Alternatively or additionally — and perhaps in the course of the same path — frame the view with an arbor or between two tall narrow trees.

All these methods provide opportunities to introduce vertical interest — and more native plant species — and to vary your planting zones.

— Heather

P.S. Wild Ones is hosting a live, virtual version of the workshop Barry mentions on Tuesday, December 9, at 6 p.m. ET. Register here now.

P.P.S. Keep those comments and questions coming, please. They fuel this newsletter!

Why, How, Wow!

As flowers fade, trees — which we barely notice all summer — become the stars of the garden.

As autumn approaches, we are reminded of its beauty by the rich and rapidly changing leaf colours produced by trees as they prepare for winter. The production of green chlorophyll shuts down, exposing red anthocyanins and yellow and amber carotins inside the leaves, resulting in trees with wonderful ornamental attributes at this time of year. — The English Garden

In much of North America, it’s still a great time to plant trees. But even if you prefer to wait until early spring, it’s worth sourcing them now. Ed Moura of Prickly Ed’s Native Plant Emporium in Rhode Island pointed out that the trees (and shrubs) I will plant in the spring already exist at a grower somewhere. He’s already placing his spring order and I’m sending him my final later today.

Why? Shade, glorious shade

Among the many, many reasons to plant trees is the cooling shade they provide in a warming world. They make yards more comfortable and even cut energy costs.

Properly placed trees around buildings can significantly reduce energy consumption, cutting air conditioning needs by 30% and saving 20–50% on heating costs. In Cincinnati, community trees save the average household $56 annually in cooling costs, totaling $4.8 million in savings across the city. The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that positioning just three trees strategically can reduce a household’s energy bills by $100 to $250 per year, lowering overall energy use by up to 25%. — Arbor Day Foundation

How: Some criteria for choosing trees

But with so many species, how to choose? Here are some criteria:

Ecological goals, like hosting or nourishing a specific species (including humans) or maximizing the number of hosted caterpillars for nestling nourishment. To find the keystone genera that host the most caterpillars near you, input your zip code at https://nativeplantfinder.nwf.org/. (Apologies to readers who tried last time and got a bum link!)

“Right plant, right place” — native range and, most importantly, sunlight and moisture conditions. This is non-negotiable (with a little wiggle room for native range). You can filter for these criteria and more at wildflower.org/plants. Also helpful is The Sibley Guide to Trees.

Design goals, e.g., shade, color, repetition, transparency, focal point, screening, etc. You can find size, shape, leaf retention (evergreen or not), and more in the plant profiles at wildflower.org/plants.

Speed of growth. I’m impatient, so I pay a lot of attention to this, though it’s often buried in the fine print. Keep in mind that tree heights represent the tallest ever and it may take decades to reach. For info on tree growth and purchase size, see What If It’s Too Tall?

Diversity. The more different trees, the more different species of life you support. Within your broader environment, you want to avoid trees that are over-planted, which can be wiped out by a disease. In Milwaukee, for example, a majority of street trees died over the course of just a few years when Dutch elm disease struck in the 1960s. Beeches, hemlocks, chestnuts, oaks, ashes, and lindens are currently facing such pathogens in various parts of the country.

After screening for all the above, you will likely still have too many choices. So go for fabulousness. Here are some inspo images from the latest issue of The English Garden, which is filled with North American native trees.

Wow! Tree fabulousness in situ

Wildr Update

How healthy is your yard? Get your score at go-wildr.com.

Our Rhode Island yard scored 70, making it “Critter Central” three years into its transformation from mostly lawn to mostly native plants. Zoe, who’s now head of operations at Wildr, tells me that’s well above the average of 51.

According to the breakdown, we’re doing all the right things for habitat diversity and yard management. (Phew!) Learning more about the insects in our yard and submitting sightings to iNaturalist will also improve our score. What else? Pete and I need to plant more trees. On our list for spring: sweetgum, winterberry, black willow, and eastern red cedar.

Ecological Landscaping Miscellany

• ICYMI, learn to take pics like the ones above in Capture Peak Garden Now with Your Phone.

• A video to share with friends and neighbors: America’s Dumbest Crop.

• Read about the vulnerability of street trees and find which genus dominates your metro area in the Washington Post (gift link).

• A new study found that simple, rhythmic sounds — like the chirping crickets we hear as we sit or stroll in our yard — can reshape the brain’s entire network landscape.

If you haven’t completed the Less Lawn More Life challenge and want to, you can start it — and get your Wildr Score — at any time at lesslawnmorelife.com. As garden columnist Margaret Roach wrote last week in the New York Times,

What if the first step in transforming your lawn-dominated home landscape into a place of enhanced biodiversity could be fun, educational — and free? — The New York Times [gift link]

Everyone: Save the date for my daughter Zoe and my FREE Turn That Patch Into a Plan Zoom workshop on Tuesday, December 9, at 6 p.m. ET, hosted by Wild Ones. You can register here now. I (modestly) think all of you will benefit from this fun, interactive workshop — and winter is the perfect time to develop an overall layout for your yard.

Green mulch for dry shade

Hi Heather! I would very much like to stop using wood mulch and replace it with plants. What do you recommend as a perennial or self seeding annual ground cover for dry shade under a quaking aspen? — Julia, Minnesota

So many choices! Many, many plants have evolved to grow in shade — even dry, total shade (less than 2 hours of sunlight a day) — and now is a great time to seed or, if you act quickly, plant. To ensure a dense bed of greenery, I recommend replacing your existing mulch with an inch or so of leaves and choosing plants that spread easily by seed or rhizome (roots). Keep in mind that shade plants tend to grow more slowly than sun-lovers.

So, how to choose? It’s helpful to have a mission for your planting. If your goal is to maximize the amount of food for bird nestlings, then you’d plant keystone species like wild strawberry or violets. (Find your keystones at nativeplantfinder.nwf.org.)

If your goal is to have blooms all season or to harmonize flower colors, you can search for plants and seeds at prariemoon.com, an excellent online native nursery that happens to be in Minnesota. I used filters for your criteria (e.g., sunlight, moisture, state, color, bloom time) and found two of my white-blooming favorites: tall thimbleweed for spring through summer and big-leaved asters for summer into fall.

Or your goal might be recreating natural plant communities. In Minnesota’s northern mesic (i.e., dry) mixed forest where quaking aspens grow, “Common ground-layer plants include wild sarsaparilla, large‑leaved aster, bluebead lily, bunchberry, and Canada mayflower,” according to the state’s Department of Natural Resources.

For more possibilities, see my column on Vibrant Native Plants for Shade. Happy planting!

— Heather

P.S. Readers, your comments and questions inspire me! Please use “comments” below to ask questions and add your thoughts and experiences.
P.P.S. Check out the final bullets for some timely tips — deer management, seed collecting, and more.

Design tricks for natural landscapes

I am constantly scanning garden design books and magazines for ideas to share with you. And, as often as possible, I visit gardens in person. Here are some recent finds:

1. Branch art under trees

On the topic of growing under trees — creating “pupation stations,” as Doug Tallamy calls them — artfully arranging dead twigs and branches around the base of a tree protects new plants as they establish, while signaling intentionality, hosting wildlife, and — eventually — contributing organic material to the soil. Ecological horticulturalist Rebecca McMackin, curator of the Substack Grow Like Wild!, presents this trick from her home garden in an upcoming short film from Plan it Wild, which I saw in a sneak preview.

Imagine my surprise to rediscover my long-lost aunt (!) hosting a Garden Conservancy Digging Deeper event! Pete and I attended, of course. Robin Wilkerson is a professional garden designer who has transitioned her own two acre garden outside Boston into an ecological eden. Here are ideas from Wilkerson’s garden that I intend to apply in my own yards:

2. Woodland edge beds

Regular readers know I’m a big advocate of shrubs for their outsized design and ecological value. I recommend them to add privacy, obscure fences, divide garden rooms, and to create focal points, for example.

But I had not thought to use them to anchor a series of planting beds, each bed with a tall central shrub surrounded by a distinct herbal combination. These islets create a sense of mystery and delight when you wander the grass paths of the archipelago, with new discoveries at each intersection or turn.

3. Eastern white pine “shrubs”

Most of us want more evergreens, for texture, screening, and winter color. Unfortunately, there are few fast-growing species evergreens in the useful six to eight-foot shrub size. That’s why I love Wilkerson’s solution, which she describes as “lopping off the tops of white pines” that otherwise grow several feet a year to 50 feet or more. When I asked for details, Wilkerson wrote:

I try to keep them at about 6 to 8 feet so I can reach them with my loppers. And frankly, I do it whenever I happen to be passing by and see a stray limb seeking dominance and reaching for the sky. Nothing seasonal about it except that at Christmas a lot of friends come by for greens and probably the bulk of the pruning is done then. Each tree maybe gets attention 2 or 3 times a year and it doesn’t seem to matter particularly when… One does have to be quite ruthless, but they don’t seem to mind!

(For more small evergreen ideas, see 15 Best Dwarf Evergreen Shrubs to Plant in Fall in Every Region, but keep in mind that most dwarf evergreens grow very, very, very slowly.)

4. Brushwood hedge

Wilkerson used an old English farming technique and created a brushwood hedge — also called a windrow or dead hedge — along one long border of her property. Essentially an organized brush pile, it’s attractive and adds enormous wildlife value.

Creating brush piles, also known as habitat piles, is a quick and easy way for you to benefit many species of wildlife. Made up of woody debris and loose leaf litter stacked together, these piles provide great shelter for small mammals like chipmunks, voles and squirrels, along with amphibians and reptiles such as salamanders and snakes. Weasels, foxes, and hawks will also use them for shelter and hunting grounds. Many birds use these woody sanctuaries for cover and will often times nest along logs or under a pile of branches on the ground. Over time, the decaying wood will bring insects for birds and small mammals to feed on and ultimately give nutrients back to the soil. — U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service

Wilkerson swears the brushwood hedge also keeps the invasives in the woody lot next door at bay. (Note: If you’re in a wildfire-prone area, learn safe ways to keep brush on your property in Firescaping to Protect Your Family from Wildfires.)

5. Rain barrel bog garden

Wilkerson’s solution to not having soil moist enough for a bog garden (and creatures like fireflies that need moist soil): A hose attached to the bottom tap of a rain barrel under a downspout provides a slow drip, while a kiddie pool buried underneath the soil holds the moisture.

6. Rows of berry canes

Wilkerson lets the birds eat her blueberries, but harvests plenty of raspberries and blackberries for her own enjoyment by growing canes in rows held up by twine strung between sturdy posts. The way the berries hang down makes them inaccessible to birds. This arrangement also controls the vines’ spread, which can overwhelm other plantings. (You can always feed birds by letting brambles have their way in a wilder area of the garden.)

7. Shagbark hickory for bats

Wilkerson planted a shagbark hickory (Carya ovata) in her woodland garden to provide habitat for bats. Who knew? According to the Urban Ecology Center,

It has been well-documented that many bat species, including big brown, little brown, silver-haired, and hoary, use shagbark hickory trees as day roosts. The bats crawl up under the curls of bark and sleep there during the day, emerging in the evening to devour thousands of insects per night.

8. Lindheimer’s beeblossom (Oenothera lindheimeri)

I saw many plants in Wilkerson’s garden that I’m going to plant — from climbing hydrangea to winterberry to spring flowering big-leaf witch hazel to black willow, a keystone I incorrectly thought required too much water to grow without irrigation in my garden.

But the new discovery that captured my heart is Lindheimer’s beeblossom, which Wilkerson grows in the cottage garden close to her house. Native to Louisiana and Texas, it’s perfect for the white-pink-coral flower palette in my new Gainesville, Florida, yard. This is an example of an extraordinary native worth planting — though not counting as part of your “two thirds for the birds” — well outside its range.

9. Dahlia cutting garden

When I visit gardens that are not mostly native, I’m not looking at the plants themselves; I’m looking at the layout, structure, hardscaping, and arrangement of plants. So I was surprised that the only garden that awed me on the Newport Secret Garden Tour was all about the exotic flowers: a raucous display of more than 200 dahlia varieties.

If you want to grow old favorites like dahlias and peonies, one way to work them into into a mostly-native yard is by gathering them together into a cutting garden. And if you plant multiple layers of natives elsewhere, it’s easy to keep two thirds for the birds. As Rhode Island Monthly wrote about the garden I toured,

McLaughlin’s garden is a riot of hues and textures. “Innocence,” “Raspberry Punch,” “Round-About,” “Bashful”: Each one is a kaleidoscope of color. Dahlias affirm the beauty in our differences, and McLaughlin celebrates them all.

10. Crazy paving with repurposed stone

I cringe when I see people replacing lawn with hardscaping, rather than plants. Lawns that thrive without pesticides, fertilizer or irrigation are far more beneficial ecologically than hardscaping. Still, there’s a place for hardscaping and intermingling irregular flagstones with river rock makes a lovely, permeable, and sustainable edge, path, or patio. As designer Charlotte Harris writes in the latest issue of Gardens Illustrated,

I love crazy paving. … Done well, using irregular paving slabs, it is full of character and design potential. It adapts easily to awkward shapes and curving paths without the need for fussy cuts, and its irregularity brings visual richness. It reuses what might otherwise be binned offcuts, broken slabs or unwanted materials being offloaded on online marketplaces.

11. Vine-covered snag

A formal garden among a row of Gilded Age mansions had two enormous snags on either side of a path. Covered with flowering vines, they were beautiful! (If you're unaware of the importance of snags, see Wait! B4 You Cut Down That Tree.) Although the vine was invasive sweet autumn clematis, you can create the same effect with equally fabulous flowering native vines such as Virgin’s bower clematis, American wisteria, Carolina jessamine, and coral honeysuckle.

Wow! Robin Wilkerson’s gorgeous native garden

“The garden curtsies to the house,” a saying based on the teachings of revered English arts and crafts garden designer Gertrude Jekyll, means the garden respects the architecture of the house. Following this precept, many traditional gardens are more formal close to the house and wilder as you move further away. Wilkerson’s home is a New England cottage and, appropriately, she designed a floriferous cottage garden in front of it.

From Around the Internet…

• Westchester & Hudson Valley readers: Important live events regarding the deer crisis (and ways to respond) from MHV Wild Ones — Oct. 4 Hooves & Havoc: The Deer Crisis Threatening NY Forests and Oct. 11 Deer Exclosure Workshop. Register and find more info here.

• Seeds are best when fresh. Here’s how to collect seeds from your own garden in autumn.

• Up to half a billion birds are migrating southward each night. Learn how researchers use weather radar to track them [gift link]. (And, if you’re in their path, turn off or block out lights at night. Here’s why and how.)

• Have you heard about the Chicago River Swim — first in a century? Nothing to do with plants, but I found this article heartwarming [gift link]. Things can get better.

Dear Heather, I am interested in affordable, natural looking mulch for my growing native garden. Do you have any recommendations and illustrative examples? — Rebecca, Florida

Slowly I turned, step by step . . . . If you don’t know the old vaudeville routine, that means MULCH MAKES ME APOPLECTIC! (You can watch Lucille Ball’s rendition below.)

My neighborhood is littered with pathetic plants stranded in seas of bark mulch. And “specimen trees” marooned in volcanic islands of mulch. How has the yard care industry bamboozled people into thinking bare mulch is a good look?

The “invention” of bark and sawdust mulch was beneficial to both the landscape and timber industries. Prior to this time, the timber industry used these lumber leftovers as hog fuel. Recycling these materials in a more environmentally friendly way theoretically benefits everyone. There are, however, some problems associated with bark and sawdust mulches that must be recognized by the landscape industry and homeowners. First of all, bark does not function like wood chips in its water holding capacity. Bark is the outer covering of the tree and is heavily suberized to prevent water loss. Suberin is a waxy substance that will repel water, and in fact helps explain why fresh bark mulch always seems dry. . . . Secondly, bark mulch is often a source of weed infestation. While newer mills have cleaner areas to hold surfaced logs, others still hold logs in weedy areas rife with horsetail and other serious landscape pests. — The Myth of Pretty Mulch, Washington State University

The best mulch is more plants. In healthy plantings, the plants you want crowd out the ones you don’t — aka weeds. That’s why I’m seeding my new beds with native annuals, as well as perennials. Annuals will mature in one season and cover the soil, while the native perennials establish themselves over several seasons.

Covering bare soil around young plants with dead organic material from your yard — the second best mulch — can also help during this establishment phase. One to four inches of leaves, wood chips, grass clippings, and even dead weeds (before they go to seed) adds nutrients, helps retain water, prevents erosion, and shades weed seeds so they don’t sprout.

I’m going to expand on how to use yard waste below. However, if you don’t have enough yard waste to mulch your new plantings, then good options include wood chips for woody plants and straw or buckwheat hulls for other areas.

Merry mulching!

— Heather

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Why, How, Wow!

The Why and How of Using “Yard Waste”

Happy fall! In many parts of the country, autumn means falling leaves, presenting a quandary about what to do with them. Such “yard waste” can be an ecological boon or an environmental disaster, depending what you do with it. Here are the latest, research-based best practices for various types of yard waste.

Lawn clippings

Please, DON’T put lawn clippings in the trash. Lawn waste in landfill generates methane, which traps head in the atmosphere roughly 30x more effectively than the carbon dioxide produced when those leaves decompose in your yard.

If you can’t use your clippings on your property, leave them in paper lawn waste bags for town pickup. Most towns compost such waste.

Even better than town composting — which requires labor and fuel for transportation — is using lawn clippings in place of fertilizer or mulch in your own yard. Here are three great ways:

1. Mulch mow grass. The easiest, ecological way to dispose of lawn clippings is to use a mulching mower — preferably a battery-powered one — to chop them up and leave them on the lawn. The clippings will provide organic material to the soil, eventually breaking down into its component parts and fertilizing the lawn. 

2. Use grass clippings as mulch elsewhere. As long as it hasn’t gone to seed, lawn clippings can also be used as mulch elsewhere in the garden. For example, Pete and I pile grass clippings and other garden waste six inches deep or more to kill invasives in a corner of our garden.

3. Compost grass clippings. If you have a vegetable garden, home composting allows you to return nutrient-rich organic material to replace what you’re harvesting.

Of course, replacing lawn with native plants that don’t require mowing is even more ecological. The inefficient motors of gas-powered lawn equipment account for 5 percent of all air pollution, according to the EPA. In addition, traditional turf is made up of exotic (non-native) grasses that don’t support beneficial insects or other wildlife.

Dead trees

DON’T cut down a dead tree and remove its roots with a backhoe. Removing stumps wastes money and ecological potential. Unfortunately, there’s a lot of hogwash on the internet about the dangers of stumps, usually promulgated by companies looking for stump removal business.

Yes, rotting stumps and roots host fungi and insects, but that’s a huge benefit rather than a danger to your family or your garden. Dead trees, including their stumps and roots, provide vital habitat for more than 1,000 species of wildlife nationwide, according to the National Wildlife Foundation. 

At least 85 species of birds in North America are cavity-nesters, and dead trees — often referred to as ‘wildlife trees’ — sustain countless other organisms. As bacteria and fungi move in to hasten the decay of snags, stumps, and fallen logs, beetles tunnel through the softening wood to lay their eggs, followed by wood-nesting native bees. Nature’s homebuilders, the woodpeckers, show up to eat the insects and nest. In the ensuing years their handiwork creates condos for swallows, squirrels, and owls. — The Humane Gardener

So DO . . .

4. Make a safe snag. You or an arborist can remove any hazardous branches from a dead tree. The National Wildlife Foundation recommends leaving three snags (dead trees) per acre. And the nutrients from their decomposition nourish plants. Here in the northeast, our snag is a magnet for pileated woodpeckers.

5. Use a dead tree’s logs or chips. If you can’t make a safe snag, then you or an arborist can cut the tree into logs or chips. Use logs to make a log fence or line a path, where salamanders and toads can hide. Use chips in a thin layer as mulch around trees and shrubs or more thickly as a path surface.

Fallen or pruned branches

DON’T put fallen or pruned branches in the trash. Like lawn clippings, they will generate methane when they decompose anaerobically in landfill. Bundling them for town compost is a better option, but you’ll lose the benefit of their decomposition — yes, benefit — in your garden.

DO…

6. Leave branches where they fall. Letting branches decompose where they fall is both easy and ecological.

7. Leave branches around your garden. If you don’t like how they look where they fall, you can move branches to line a path or chop them into lengths to put in a log wall. Either way, they will provide habitat for cavity nesting bees and other wildlife.

8. Put fallen branches in a brush pile. Brush piles, which provide habitat for birds and other larger critters, are an important part of any ecological landscape.

Leaves under trees

DON’T shred, burn, or even compost leaves. And certainly don’t put them in the trash to produce methane in landfill. Many beneficial insects — notably, moth and butterfly larvae — overwinter in leaf litter.

Many organic gardeners opt for shredding their fall leaves for use in compost piles. While this is certainly a more environmentally friendly practice than bagging leaves and sending them to the landfill, shredded leaves will not provide the same cover as leaving them whole, and you may be destroying eggs, caterpillars, and chrysalis along with the leaves. — Xerces Society

Research has shown that moth and butterfly caterpillars are vital for transferring the sun’s energy to birds and other animals. Birds can survive without bird feeders, but most terrestrial species cannot survive without feeding their young hundreds of caterpillars a day. And moths and butterfly populations are declining rapidly. So please, create what entomologist Doug Tallamy calls “caterpillar pupation sites” on your property.

While monarch migration is a well-known phenomenon, it’s not the norm when it comes to butterflies. In fact, the vast majority of butterflies and moths overwinter in the landscape as an egg, caterpillar, chrysalis, or adult. In all but the warmest climates, these butterflies use leaf litter for winter cover. Great spangled fritillary and wooly bear caterpillars tuck themselves into a pile of leaves for protection from cold weather and predators. Red-banded hairstreaks lay their eggs on fallen oak leaves, which become the first food of the caterpillars when they emerge. Luna moths and swallowtail butterflies disguise their cocoons and chrysalises as dried leaves, blending in with the “real” leaves. — Xerces Society

9. Leave fallen leaves as mulch. Leaving up to four inches of leaves on your garden beds adds organic material effortlessly. Note: Evergreen leaves, like pine straw and live oak leaves, are best used when you want to inhibit growth; they often take longer to break down than deciduous leaves and can inhibit desired spreading by seed or stolon. Four inches of pine straw or live oak leaves, replenished annually, makes an excellent path.

10. Pile leaves to create a planting bed. Piling leaves six to eight inches over lawn is a great way to start a bed under a tree the following spring. The leaves will smother the grass (and weeds) beneath. Replacing grass with a bed of native perennials creates pupation sites for moths and butterflies.

11. Remove fallen leaves whole and use elsewhere. If you can’t use all your leaves where they fall, rake or vacuum them and use them whole elsewhere. Just don’t chop them up or compost them. The high heat of a compost pile will kill the beneficial insects nestled among them.

Sprinkling of leaves

By now you realize that mulch-mowing leaves — as opposed to grass — chops up all those pupating moths and butterflies. Ick. You also DON’T want to blow them into the street where the butterfly larvae nestled in them will be crushed by cars. The easiest, most ecological alternative is to . . .

12. Leave a sprinkling of leaves on grass. If your lawn is up to 20 percent covered by leaves, just leave them. They will blow around and break down without smothering your grass.

Flower stalks and seed heads

Remember the old rules about “cleaning” your beds in the fall? That’s important for vegetable gardens, but not for the ornamental plants in your yard. In fact, ecological yard care often means forgetting the old horticultural rules that misapplied agricultural practices to ornamental gardens. So, DON’T cut down perennial stalks and seed heads in the fall.

13. DO leave stalks and seed heads. About a third of our 4,000 native bee species nest and overwinter in the pithy stems of meadow plants like goldenrod. And birds like juncos and goldfinches live on the seeds of native flowers as they move south and over the winter. Fortunately, stalks and seed heads give gardens beautiful winter interest, as naturalistic garden designers like Piet Oudolf have helped us see. (Using some seed heads to propagate more plants won't hurt.)

If tall stalks bother your sense of order in the spring, you can cut them to two feet without eliminating much bee nesting area. Entomologist Heather Holm found that where most bees overwinter in the first 18 to 24 inches of plant stalks; if you leave two feet of stalk, the bees will nest there the following year.

If you have a meadow and area where woody plants will take over without occasional cutting, consider mowing a third of the meadow each year and leaving two thirds for the birds and the bees.

Wow!

Related Resources

• Want to learn more about insects and yard waste? See Xerces Society’s Leave the Leaves.

• Want to learn more about designing a winter garden? Read this Q&A with Piet Oudolf [gift link] or check out my article Plants that Look Great in Winter.

• Want to seed a meadow this winter? Read Seed a Meadow Now for Big Savings and start planning now.

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